QUICK FACTS
THE MILAN-ROME ITALO
When the Italians built their 900km of high-speed rails, they used a new way of delivering electricity that prevented traditional trains from using the line. To exploit the resulting capacity they had to open to the private sector. Try Milan-Rome non-stop in three hours on the wonderful privately-owned Italo. At 300km/ph, the landscape slides by in a sort of startled silence.
THE SOUTH COAST LINE
The single-track line around the south coast of Calabria, Basilicata and Puglia has decades-old two-carriage diesels chugging along with barely adequate airconditioning but the small bathing stations are dreamy, and the towns of Crotone and Taranto have museums to remind you this area was once called Magna Graecia, Greater Greece.
THE FERROVIE SUD-EST
For train buffs and lovers of Italian anomalies, Ferrovie Sud-Est is a must. These 500km of meandering tracks in Italy’s narrow heel remain separate from the main network, though publicly owned. Trains dating back to the ’40s wander through vines and cactuses. Passengers are obliged to change trains regularly to go even short distances. Stations are cute and EU funded, staff are friendly and honest in admitting they don’t know when you’ll arrive. Holiday travel only, but don’t miss the Castle of Otranto, Gallipoli, or Santa Maria di Leuca, the southernmost tip of the land.
INTERRAILERS
The one-country InterRail pass covers rail travel in Italy and is available from
à190 for travel on any three days in a month ( à326 for eight days in a month). However, most fast or express trains require pass holders to pay a
à10 reservation supplement for each journey. Given the low cost of buying one-off fares, especially if you book in advance, it is likely to be much cheaper to book each journey separately. For information on Italian trains and to book tickets in advance, see
www.trenitalia.com or www.italiarail.com. — © The Sunday Telegraph