Sunday Times

LIFE IN HER VEINS

Neville Green shares his enthusiasm for London

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S AMUEL Johnson said: “When a man is tired of London, he is tired of life, for there is in London all that life can afford.”

On my visit to this ultra-vibrant city, this quote came alive. The city never slumbers. The buildings are magnificen­t. From the beauty of St Paul’s to the contrastin­g modernday design of The Shard to the quirky Gherkin, London is a city that will only tire you because you want to walk — in fact, run — exploring as much as you can. When I encountere­d the Undergroun­d, it was a blurred maze of noise and people. Frightenin­g, in a way, with crowds of people, speaking different languages, being swallowed by the Tube station stairways. However, I soon embraced it as an extremely reliable and rapid way of moving around London.

Many of us have a bucket list and in this capital city I could tick off many of my goals. Tower Bridge. Tick. Tour Lord’s Cricket Ground. Tick. Wimbledon. Cross Abbey Road as The Beatles did. Touch a WW 2 Spitfire and Lancaster bomber. St Paul’s. Big Ben. Tick, tick, tick!

Parliament Square displays two statues of South African statesmen — Nelson Mandela and Jan Smuts — alongside Winston Churchill gazing towards Big Ben. Every day, people from all over the world throng the gates of Buckingham Palace to witness the pomp and ceremony of the changing of the guard. Police on horseback control the surging crowds, barking out commands often tinged with humour and sarcasm as tourists jostle for places. Joggers, strollers and cyclists enjoy the green lung of Hyde Park as it offers space and wide open recreation­al areas. It also displays the sombre reminder of the memorial to those who died in the tragic 2005 bombings.

In summer, time is forgotten as daylight stretches well after regular bedtime and midnight is soon passed but the city still buzzes. There are shows to be seen and theatres to savour. Early in the morning, the Tubes and buses are still operating, safe and efficient.

I still have many bucket-list boxes to be ticked but this great city is huge and yes, time does fly when you’re having fun. You cannot spend too much time sleeping when visiting London. You need to move to the rhythm of this city.

Wear good running shoes. Use public transport. The Oyster card is the world in your pocket. Trafalgar Square and Piccadilly Circus are sights to behold. Greenwich is meridian magic and the views from the cable car over the Thames and atop the London Eye are truly memorable. Catching this big wheel at night unveils a breath-taking view.

In this world of mobile phones, London’s iconic bright red telephone booths still attract tourists to be photograph­ed inside them, pos- ing as they make imaginary calls to family back home. The traditiona­l English pub is evident everywhere — each one spotless in its appearance and enjoying a roaring trade as the customers quench their thirst with a welcome draught or “pint”.

Not all statues are what they seem. As you wander through the streets there are figures that come to life as you drop coins into a strategica­lly placed hat. These mimes are works of art that have all spectators flummoxed due to their innovation and magic. There are men in suits, who appear to be headless, and ones sitting on invisible chairs — with amazed onlookers trying to fathom out the trick on the eye.

The titans of transport, the double-decker red buses, serve the public with pride and I was excited to climb the staircase and sit at the front for a panoramic view. The drivers are clearly skilful and well trained as they manoeuvre through the narrow and tight streets.

The trains are equally efficient and there are constant announceme­nts, keeping everyone well informed. London Victoria station is a hubbub of heaving bodies carrying bags and briefcases, heading to determined destinatio­ns.

Fast-food shops are everywhere and packed with hungry buyers. Fresh sandwich meals are extremely popular, generously filled with a variety of healthy treats and reasonably priced as we tried to avoid doing the rand/pound conversion.

Oh, and that famed London weather — one wonders how cricket was ever founded in this part of the world. A summer day’s weather in London is as consistent as our electricit­y supply back home — sunny one moment, then a shower, then windy, back to sunshine, then cold. A brolly or poncho is recommende­d. Be prepared!

London is a remarkable city. Expect the unexpected. Enjoy experienci­ng the postcard portraits that you stared at in awe during your childhood days, but beware — the reality is more mind-blowing than you would have ever imagined. — ©

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 ??  ?? BIG MADIBA: The statue of Nelson Mandela looms large on Parliament Square
BIG MADIBA: The statue of Nelson Mandela looms large on Parliament Square
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