THE RESTAURANT
Firdose Moonda finds an unexpected fine-dining gem in Zimbabwe
Mention “eating out” in Zimbabwe and you’re likely to be met with raised eyebrows. Five years ago, people were just glad if they were able to eat. Times were tough and food was scarce. Even though things have improved dramatically, dining out is still regarded by some as an unnecessary indulgence. Others see it only as a way to celebrate an important occasion like a birthday.
It is also something that travellers do, and it was as a traveller that I sampled Harare’s restaurant scene. For Portuguese peri-peri there is Coimbra, for Italian there is Adrienne’s, and for a bit of everything, ’Alo ’Alo. Then there is Emmanuel’s, attached to the Bronte Garden Hotel on Baines Avenue.
The food, at $20-$30 for mains, is classy — think oxtail ravioli, Thai crocodile curry, impala medallions on a bed of red cabbage, or grilled tilapia with salmon mousse. The chef is Stephen Hyde, one of Jamie Oliver’s early teachers. He remembers Oliver as a student whose “enthusiasm and love of his craft and food set him apart from the rest”.
Much like Hyde himself. His passion for the land of his birth was the reason he abandoned a culinary career in London and relocated to what must be one of the least fashionable foodie places to set up shop. After mentioning his heritage to one his students at the Kingsway Westminster College, who was obviously connected, Hyde was offered a job by the Bronte’s owners.
“As soon as I stepped off the plane and saw the Zimbabwe dawn, that was it,” he said. “Home!”
Hyde agreed to start a restaurant which would serve “a menu that is a little different” and combine traditional ingredients with modern cookery processes and presentation. It was an exciting prospect but the euphoria wilted when Hyde realised the extent of the challenge. Zimbabwe was clawing its way out of financial crisis and the shops, whose shelves had been empty for months, were only slowly refilling. “There were so many barriers and sourcing of basics could be very frustrating,” he said.
Once the country switched to the US dollar in 2009, trade resumed, imports flowed in and small amounts of local goods started to become available. That made Hyde’s job easier in a practical sense, but he was in a bit of a time warp.
“Coming to Zimbabwe was like returning to 1970s food,” he admitted. “Fine dining” was regarded as a burger, pizza or maybe a fillet steak. Hyde realised he would have to introduce innovative concepts slowly. “I would dearly love to introduce multi-sensory dining and a little molecular gastronomy, but it is a little early for that in Zimbabwe. Sous vide isn’t even here yet,” he said.
“But there are changes in the way people eat — new restaurants are opening up and they have very modern décor and contemporary design. Zimbabweans who are well travelled and returning home expect that. But some clients prefer simple food and my aim is to offer an eclectic mix utilising local produce.”
Hyde sources as much as he can from local farmers and is working with them to encourage diversification. “We have Kariba crayfish and fresh farmed trout delivered. Local growers have been very willing to try new crops. We have a lot of talented individuals here, the friendliest I’ve ever met, who are always ready to make a plan to succeed.”
And what about inviting Oliver to eat at Emmanuel’s? “He has quite a fan base here and I am sure he would enjoy the experience,” said Hyde.
132 Baines Avenue, Harare; Tel +263 4 707 522/7 www.brontehotel.co.zw/emmanuelsrestaurant