CROATIA: FIND THE GAP
The country has some of the most spect coastlines on the continent — and much Jane Foster provides a step-by-step guid
SINCE its War of Independence (1991-1995), Croatia has tried to build a new identity, combining its natural and cultural heritage with a vision of the future. “The Mediterranean as it once was,” says the Croatian National Tourist Board motto, with a 21st-century nod towards respect for the environment and sustainable tourism.
A country of dramatic mountainous landscapes and dreamy blue seas, Croatia is now easier to visit than ever before. Big improvements have been made in the national infrastructure: the motorway network has been extended, and many hotels have been renovated.
Tourism here has a long history — there are traces of Roman summer villas on the Dalmatian islands — but it was first developed on a large scale during the Yugoslav era, when big resort hotels, equipped with excellent sports facilities, were built along the Croatian coast.
Nowadays, lovers of the great outdoors come to Croatia specifically for its adventure-sports facilities — sailing, scuba diving, sea kayaking, rafting, mountain biking and rock climbing are all on offer here.
For history and culture, city destinations such as Zagreb, Dubrovnik, Split and Zadar offer Roman, Byzantine, Venetian and Austro-Hungarian monuments. In fact, Dubrovnik and Split are Unesco world heritage sites, as are the cathedrals in Trogir and Sibenik and the basilica in Porec.
Against this backdrop of splendid historic buildings, these cities stage summer festivals, with open-air concerts and theatre, often attracting notable international performers.
While Croatia’s rocky stretch of Adriatic coast is not suitable for largescale development (there are none of the long sandy beaches found in Greece and Spain), it is astoundingly beautiful, offering numerous small pebble coves backed by pinewoods and crystal-clear turquoise sea. This combination of unspoilt nature and beautifully preserved centuries-old architecture, plus a lively contemporary cultural scene promises rewarding memories for anyone who wishes to explore it now.
WHEN TO GO The best time to visit Croatia is during the months of May and June and September and October. Then you can expect pleasant sunny days, with all the tourist facilities up and running but no crowds. It’s also the perfect time for outdoor activities such as hiking, mountain biking, rafting and sea kayaking. In contrast, the peak season of July and August sees the coastal resorts extremely busy, with soaring temperatures and a steep rise in hotel prices — on the plus side you get openair cultural events and a buzzing nightlife. In low season, November to April, many hotels and attractions close and the weather becomes chilly.
GETTING AROUND
Ferries & catamarans For many visitors, the islands are Croatia’s main draw. There are 48 inhabited islands, many of which can be reached by ferry. The principal mainland ferry hubs are Rijeka, Zadar, Split and Dubrovnik. The state-owned Jadrolinija ( jadrolinija.hr) operates ferries and catamarans to the islands, as well as a twice-weekly overnight coastal service (cabins available) from Rijeka to Dubrovnik, with stops at Split, Stari Grad (island of Hvar), Korcula Town (island of Korcula) and Sobra (island of Mljet) en route.
In addition, several private