QUICK FACTS

WHEN TO GO

Laos really has only two official seasons: dry from October to April; and wet from May to September.

WHERE TO STAY

Pon Arena Hotel, Don Khong island: Spacious and clean. Rooms at the front have balconies overlooking the Mekong. The design is functional, but it has everything you need — wi-fi, air con, and a small, riverside swimming pool ( ponarenahotel.com; doubles from about R600).

The River Resort, Champasak: Despite the relatively low price, this feels upmarket and luxurious, with a peaceful setting in the middle of a paddy field on the western bank of the Mekong. Stylish bungalows have been brought up to date, with sleek, clean lines, shiny surfaces, and floor-to-ceiling windows opening out onto a vast balcony, some of which overlook the paddy field, some the river ( theriverresortlaos.com; doubles from R1 200).

La Folie Lodge, Dong Daeng island, pictured: A fantastic island setting where traditionally built wooden bungalows, each with a balcony overlooking the wide beach of the Mekong, nestle in landscaped, tropical gardens. There is a lovely pool and an open, colonial-style dining room serving fantastic European and Laotian food ( lafolie-laos.com ; doubles from R1 800).

WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK

Khem Khong Restaurant, Pakse: There’s a great atmosphere aboard this floating restaurant just outside town, which does particularly good seafood.

Restaurant Na Dao, Pakse: An elegant venue, beautifully done out in dark wood and with an old colonial feel. Excellent French food; top-notch service.

Senesothxeun Hotel, Don Khong: A relatively new hotel on Don Khong, and the most upmarket place to eat on the island. The restaurant is air-conditioned and specialises in fish fresh from the river outside its door. Unusually, it also offers Western food options ( ssxhotel.com).