IF YOU GO . . .

WHERE TO STAY: Parma’s standard hotels are still firmly stuck in the era of the commercial traveller. Better to look at an upmarket “residence” such as Palazzo Dalla Rosa Prati ( palazzodallarosaprati.it, doubles from R2 500), which for location, charm and service stands out from the crowd.

Another good centro storico berth is the Al Battistero d’Oro bed-and-breakfast ( albattisterodoro.it, doubles from R1 400), run by the personable Patrizia Valenti.

WHERE TO EAT: Though the creative, Michelin-starred Parizzi (Strada della Repubblica 71, closed Mondays, taster menus from R975) is perhaps the city’s culinary high point, most locals would argue that Parma’s foodie soul is to be found in its trattorias.

Among the best are La Greppia (Strada Garibaldi 39a, average R520 a head) and, 11km northeast of the city, the cheap and cheerful Il Cacciatore (Via Aia 15, Frassinara di Sorbolo, average R380 a head).

La Gatta Matta (Borgo degli Studi 9a, closed Sundays and Mondays, average R570 a head) is a compromise between high and low, offering creative takes on the local tradition in a relaxed, elegant bistro setting.

GETTING THERE: There are no direct flights between South Africa and Italy. The best option is to fly to a major hub such as London, then take a budget flight to Parma. — The Daily Telegraph