IF YOU GO . . .

WHERE TO STAY:

I tried the Black Rhino (from R1 950 pp/pn sharing, see blackrhinogamelodge.com), which is one of several lodges in the Black Rhino Game Reserve, a private concession bordering on the western side of the Pilanesberg proper. There are no fences between the two, so the creatures can go where they will. Guests, however, are not allowed to drive their own vehicles in the private reserve. If you want to do your own game drive, this means leaving by the closest gate and driving all the way around on the R565 to the Bakubang Gate, about 33km away.

Entry into the Pilanesberg Reserve is R65 for adults and R20 for children. It’s also R20 per vehicle. For more info, visit parksnorthwest.co.za/pilanesberg. There is a great listing of activities in the park — from hot-air ballooning to drumming to elephant riding — at pilanesbergnationalpark.org.

For accommodation in the Pilanesberg reserve, there are eight options, most of which cover the high end of the scale. Luxury choices include the Ivory Tree (from R2 850 pp/pn in high season); and the Tshukudu Bush Lodge, which has six luxury chalets at R2 150 per person sharing per night. Many require a minimum two-night stay over weekends. Find them all on the map at http://pilanesberggamereserve.com.

For mid-range and budget options, both the Manyane and Bakgatla resorts have chalets (around R2 000 per night for a double, B&B. Children under 12 stay free); safari tents (around R2 000); plus caravan and camping sites (about R180). The rates depend on when you go (midweek, weekend or peak) and which catering option — self-catering, B&B or dinner, B&B — you choose. See goldenleopardresorts.co.za.