FOREIGN FLING

If you can’t cross oceans to taste faraway wines, let them come to you, writes

Have you ever longed to taste Bordeaux? Imagined sipping Chianti with your spaghetti arrabiatta? Wondered what people mean, exactly, when they talk about Kiwi-style sauvignon blanc? Doubted that you could ever afford foreign wines in South Africa?

Then head to you nearest Checkers supermarket (www.checkers.co.za) and locate the Wines of the World shelf, where you’ll discover about 50 wines from France, Italy, Spain, Portugal, Chile, Argentina, Australia and New Zealand.

Selected from nearly 3 000 samples by Shoprite Checkers wine buyer Stephanus Eksteen and internationally renowned wine judge, critic and importer Michael Fridjhon, most of them retail for between R30 and R70 a bottle. Incredibly, this means their export prices were lower than anything you’d be prepared to pay for local wines.

“Undoubtedly the worst cheap wine in the world comes from La Belle France,” reckons Fridjhon, who is therefore understandably chuffed with the Carillonade Bordeaux 2009 (R49.99), perfumed and austere without being thin and weedy, and even more pleased with the Ogier Les Ménines Côtes du Rhône 2011 (R49.99), an absolute bargain with its soft ripe plum flavours and whiffs of nutmeg and rosemary.

And who would have thought that a Champagne with a 92-point rating from top US wine publication Wine Spectator would sell for R229.99 a bottle? “The Charles de Cazanove Brut is an extraordinary value offering,” says Fridjhon.

Italy is also every wine lover’s dream, growing some 350 grape varieties in more than 20 regions. From Tuscany comes the Sensi Risalto Chianti Montalbano 2011 (R69.99), an excellent food wine with its dark plum, vine-ripe tomato jam and black pepper notes.

But, as Fridjhon points out: “Real value resides in the wannabe nations because, price-pointed against France, they have to over-deliver on taste and quality.”

This includes the Old World nations of Spain and Portugal, which benefit from lower labour costs and more sunshine. From Spain comes the Viña Temprana Campo de Borja Old Vines Tempranillo 2012 (R32.99), unheard-of value for such a smooth, delicately wooded, true-to-origin wine with

I CHALLENGE YOU TO FIND ANY LOCAL PINOT FOR THE SAME QUALITY AT THAT PRICE

plush black cherry flavours. The Portuguese Atlantico Vinho Regional Alentejano 2010 (R44.99) is a translucent ruby-red blend of Aragonez, Trincadeira and Alicante, best served lightly chilled with its red berries and hint of almond.

Wines from Australia and New Zealand tend to offer less value for money, not least because South Africa’s trade agreement with the EU doesn’t apply and retail prices have to cover a 25% levy. But the easy-drinking Diamond Ridge Sauvignon Blanc 2012 (R69.99) shows the tropical, canned gooseberry aromas of Kiwi “savvy” with lovely fruit purity and freshness.

Better value comes from South America, namely the vibrant Concha y Toro Casillero del Diablo Reserva Pinot Noir 2012 from Chile’s Valle Central (R69.99), all raspberry jelly and red stone fruit: “I challenge you to find any local pinot for the same quality at that price,” says Fridjhon. Argentina’s high altitude and low humidity make organic production of premium wines a breeze. The Santa Julia Mendoza Malbec 2011 (R44.99) has intriguing whiffs of tobacco, tealeaf and smoke as well as blackcurrant and savoury black olive flavours.

Fridjhon says: “Finding benchmark wines at these price points has been one of the most fun projects I’ve been involved with over the past 10 years.”