To Hell and back
Septuagenarian Glenis Cash takes a hike into Gamkaskloof
LIKE all dream holidays, many seem to land up in “file 13” and the Donkey Trail hike was almost destined to be one of them.
Approaching 70-plus, and before we were really over the hill, my spouse and I decided to climb the rugged Swartberg mountains, up and down into “the Hell”.
The reaction from our friends and family went something like: “At your age? Don’t be an ass!”
Our response was to assure them that the only asses on our adventure would be the donkeys affording us the luxury of not having to carry all our stuff.
Nevertheless, it was with some trepidation that our group of eight arrived at Living Waters to a warm welcome from our hostess, Erika, and her enthusiastic staff, the guides and, of course, the donkeys (all found abused and rescued by Erika, each one lovingly named).
After a comfortable night at the old homestead and a healthy breakfast the following morning (no lie-in), we set off to face the challenge ahead on the first day of a 14.3km hike, plus the thought of spending our night in freezing conditions at Wyenek in two-man tents, where some traces of snow remained on the surrounding higher peaks.
How do the donkeys make it to the top of a 1 523m summit, each carrying a canvas pannier with our personal belongings and food for the two-day hike? One can only think of that poem The Donkey by GK Chesterton. The track at times was full of tumbled rocks, but the animals picked their way along, encouraged by the guides. And so, after a strenuous climb, we finally reached the point of no return. But the group was so enjoying the astounding scenery and the company of donkeys that we decided to press on after a picnic lunch alongside a stream, where our four-legged friends also stopped for a drink.
It was a wet and muddy crossing and then the climbing really became tough, but we were awed by the indescribable beauty of the surrounding Swartberg mountains and taking the odd break helped. So, whether it was thanks to our coming across a leopard spoor that hurried us on or the encouragement from our patient guides, we finally made it to our tented camp, perched on an escarpment with a glorious view, where the donkeys also had a wellearned rest and enjoyed drinking from the waterfall.
After a delicious pasta supper, we were only too happy to crawl into our tents and listen to the quiet of the night and the odd braying from the donkeys under a star-studded sky.
Steaming mugs of coffee greeted us in the morning, which helped us pack up and leave our camp behind as we set off for Gamkaskloof. But first, sadly, we had to say goodbye to the faithful donkeys, who were returning to Living Waters.
Loaded with energy snacks for fuel, we set off on a downhill, zigzagging hike all the way into “the Hell”, where we stopped for a picnic lunch.
That evening, we once again enjoyed the hospitality of Erika and her crew and the luxury of a bed and shower in restored cottages of the “Klower” people in Gamkaskloof. In bygone days, all materials, goods etc, could only come in by pack animal.
On our final day, we were driven back to Living Waters over the amazing Swartberg Pass.
We can only look forward to a return visit.