CAPE COLONY’S NKANDLA

W as Willem Adriaan van der Stel South Africa’s first corrupt official? Having replaced his father, Simon, as governor of the Cape in 1699, he was dismissed in 1707, accused of using Dutch East India Company resources to develop his private estate, Vergelegen, near present-day Somerset West.

Only . . . the petition that led to his dismissal was initiated by men whose theft of Khoikhoi cattle he was trying to stop. One of them, Adam Tas, admitted to having drawn it up in a “fit of mad passion” for which he apologised, while many of its signatories said they had signed out of ignorance or because the conspirators had threatened to break their necks if they did not.

I’m determined to delve into this chapter of history more deeply one day, partly because it seems Willem Adriaan wasn’t entirely bad; and partly because Vergelegen was not merely the Nkandla of the early 1700s, but exists to this day as one of the Cape’s showpiece estates.

Recently named the overall South African winner of the Great Wine Capitals Best of Wine Tourism Awards, it’s a magical place — just head there for carols by candlelight on December 18, in aid of Helderberg Hospice, and you’ll see what I mean. The only surprise is that Vergelegen doesn’t have a five-star rating for any of its wines in Platter’s 2014 guide, even though it praises winemaker Andre van Rensburg for “consistently raising the bar with his complex white and red blends, and precise single varieties”. Regarding the latter, if you’re looking for a really special sauvignon blanc this festive season, try the intense and exhilarating Vergelegen Reserve 2013 from a single vineyard on the Schaapenberg.

Mouth-watering acidity cuts through layers of grapefruit, guava and granadilla. R170 ex-cellar.