THE RESTAURANT
The restaurant in the historic hotel conjures up a bygone era with its table d’hôte menu, writes Hilary Biller
W riting in his book, Footprints — On the Trail of Those Who Shaped Tzaneen’s History, historian David Hilton-Barber makes reference to the Glenshiel Hotel, a landmark in the area just outside Haenertsburg in Limpopo.
For many years a boutique hotel renowned for its hospitality, Glenshiel was the original homestead of a Dutch trader, Peer Caste, who came to the country in 1932. A man of substance, Caste was pivotal in establishing the Caste and Walker Trading company.
After his death, his daughter Karin and her Danish husband Christian Ieul moved into the homestead and years later, after Christian died, the house (full of beautiful Dutch antiques, some of which are still a feature of the hotel) was converted into a boutique hotel. At one time the hotel was managed by their daughter Marietta. Surprisingly, there’s no mention in the book as to how the hotel acquired its Scottish name.
Today Johannesburg couple Miles and Laura van der Molen own the hotel. It’s the teamwork of affable general manager Joe Malebane, his wife Lolo — who is executive chef — and chef Lucas Mutondoro and their assistants that has ensured the hotel has maintained its good reputation.
We didn’t get to test the beds but did have dinner, table d’hôte style in the hotel’s Fig Tree restaurant is a little stiff and formal, but warmed up later. White linen tablecloths and napkins, rows of cutlery lined up like soldiers, and white crockery.
We started with such an old-fashioned table d’hôte signature, soup of the day, and, no surprise, it was mushroom. Never a good looker, the flavour of the soup was good — robust and made even better with the addition of whisky.
For mains, a choice between steak, chicken or fish — we chose the trout from local Magoebaskloof waters. Baked to perfection, it came whole and deboned with a belly stuffed full of feta and locally grown spinach, and served with a lemon-butter sauce.
Lolo told me later that fish is one of her specialities because “it’s not difficult to cook well”. I don’t agree, it’s tricky to get just right.
It was the weekend of the Haenertsburg berry festival celebrating locally grown raspberries, gooseberries and blueberries — so for dessert, mixed berry crêpe suzette was a no-brainer. Farm fresh berries oozing out between layers of gooey pancake, delicious — an interesting slant to the old classic recipe. ................................................... Glenshiel Hotel, Haenertsburg, (015) 276 4336, www.glenshiel.co.za R170 pp for four course table’d’hote menu.