GREECE IS GOOD FOR YOU
Whether it’s action, food or beaches you want, Greece has got it. Jane Foster and Sophie Butler offer up a wide range of holiday options
Seaside stops
G REECE is famous for its sun-bleached ruins and turquoise-blue sea. But with miles and miles of mainland coastline and more than 1 000 islands (no one is really sure how many there are), of which 227 are inhabited, how do you find the ideal destination?
First, the islands. The Argo-Saronic archipelago, including most people’s favourite, Hydra, with its boutique hotels occupying restored neoclassical mansions, and Aegina, with its pistachio orchards, lies the closest to Athens. The Cyclades, of which the most popular are Santorini and Mykonos, tend to be rocky and arid, and are known for their whitewashed cubic buildings. Santorini and Mykonos are Greece’s most commercial islands, and also home to the highest concentration of five-star hotels, while smaller islands such as Antiparos and Koufonissi are more offbeat and restful.
On the far side of the Aegean, close to Turkey, the Dodecanese are scattered around Rhodes, with its beautiful medieval old town, and diminutive Patmos, with its timeless monasteries, while the low-key, pine-scented Sporades include Skiathos.
The lesser-visited northeast Aegean Islands centre on Lesvos, where ouzo comes from, and Chios, with its medieval villages and mastic trees. The biggest Greek island, Crete, stands on its own, rising proudly from the Libyan Sea and facing towards North Africa.
The only islands that are not accessible by boat from Piraeus are the lush Ionian Islands, with most people’s favourite being Corfu. The Ionians cover a broad spectrum from the budget to the luxury markets. They also have some outstanding beaches and, despite suffering from occasional earthquakes (the most recent being on Kefalonia last month), are considered safe and peaceful, and ideal for family holidays.
Most packages will take you to busy islands. To reach quieter destinations, independent travel and a few hours’ study of the complicated Greek ferry timetable ( greekferries.gr) are required.
Back on the mainland, the Peloponnese is all about rugged mountains, fertile valleys and outstanding archaeological sites, such as Corinth, Olympia and Epidaurus — the latter lies close to Nafplio, which many Greeks consider their most beautiful city.
To the south, Kalamata (where the olives come from) lies close to the Mani, a rugged peninsula with windswept villages of old stone cottages, some of which have been restored as holiday homes.
Northern Greece, which centres on Thessaloniki, is popular with holidaymakers from Bulgaria and Serbia, who stay at the big, modern seaside resorts on Halkidiki, close to the monasteries of Mount Athos (which occupy a separate peninsula).
Wherever you go, you are more or less guaranteed warm, sunny days from June to September. Like other Mediterranean countries, Greece’s peak tourist season is in the hottest months, July and August. If you want to avoid the crowds, and the heat, visit in June or September, when the sea is warm enough to swim, the hotels and restaurants are open for business, but the locals are not too fazed by the onslaught of holidaymakers.
Cultural trips
G reece’s most famous site, the Acropolis, meaning “Sacred Rock”, is indisputably impressive. But many of the country’s most remarkable archaeological sites and medieval monuments have been declared Unesco World Heritage Sites and they are all worth a visit.
These include the ancient sites in Athens; the Sanctuary of Apollo at Delphi; Olympia, Mycenae and Epidaurus in the Peloponnese; the tombs of the Greek Macedonian kings at Vergina in northern Greece; the Heraion and Pythagorion on Samos; and the tiny sacred islet of Delos. Also worth a mention, although not listed by Unesco, are the Minoan sites on Crete, the best known of which is Knossos.
Unesco-protected Byzantine monuments include the groups of monasteries on Mount Athos and the Meteora; several monasteries on the islands of Patmos and Chios; and the early Christian churches in Thessaloniki. Anyone with a keen interest in this period would also enjoy the excellent Byzantine Museums in Thessaloniki and Athens, displaying frescoes, mosaics, icons, jewellery and religious paraphernalia ( mbp.gr and
byzantineemuseum.gr respectively). On the Ionian Islands and Crete are monuments left from the centuries of Venetian rule the most magnificent being Corfu Town, with its sturdy fortifications, two fortresses, churches and fountains. There are few notable monuments left from the years spent under the Ottoman Turks, as These were largely demolished after Greek independence as a gesture of liberation. However, in medieval Rhodes Town, you can see the well preserved but defunct Mosque of Suleiman
the Magnificent. Of course you can plan a tour and visit these attractio ns on your own, but there’s a lot to be said for hiring a guide, especially at the archaelogical sites, to explain something of their hisory. For this, contact the Association of Licensed Tourist Guides ( tourist-guides.gr).
Food and wine
Many people come to Greece to indulge in its Mediterranean diet — wines and olive oils, seasonal fruit and vegetables, and fresh fish, all served with a sprinkling of spices from Anatolia. Thanks to rich, fertile soils ang a wa rm, sunny climate, Greece abounds in vineyards, olive groves and orchards — Crete even grows avocados and bananas. Agrito-urism is catching on, especially on Crete an d a working farm is the best place to sample authentic regional cooking — it also benefits locals, as it is sustainable. Ecotourism Greece
( ecotourism-greece.com ) provides a comprensive overview of working farms accommodation and meals. But it s not just about age-old recipes and rural hideaways. Sophisticated, creative Greek cuisine h as arrived on the scene. Some of the beast is served in restaurants such as Varoulko (varoulko.gr ) and Funky Gourmet (funkygourmet.com) in Athens, both of which have been awarded Michelin stars. On the islands you’ll find the same wave of contemp orary gourmet fare at Selene ( selene.gr) on Santorini and Avli ( avli.gr) on Crete. Both run classes, should you wish to learn more. wines Greek have also seen a renaissance over the past decade. Although the ancient Greek's h ad a god of wine, Dionysus (who was also the god of ritual madness), it is only recently that the country’s wines have been taken ser iously by connoisseurs. The top reds come from the regions of Naoussa in Greek Macedonia, Nemea in the Peloponnese, and Crete while Santorini produces the best whites. The wine Roads of Northern Greece
ds.gr) is a series of eight wine routes and the criss -cross Thessaly, Epirus, Macedonia and Tharce taking you through amazing countryside and all but-forgotten villages to more than 40 notable wineries, which are open for tasting. The website has suggested itineraries, including places to sleep and eat along the way. Greece’s largest producer, Boutari
boutari.gr), has wineries on Crete and Santorini open for tours, which include a short film about the history of wine on the respective islands, and tasting. Also on Crete, the Manousak is Winery ( nostoswines.com) offers a more rustic but equally instructive and entertaining tour, followed by tasting.
If you’re in the capital, Alternative Athens ( alternative-athens.com ) does a three-hour guided Delicious Food Walk, taking you to places where the locals shop for staples such as olive oil, cheese and honey, with sampling included.
Activity holidays
S ailing is one of Greece’s top pulls, and yachting is undoubtedly the best way to explore the islands. Nothing else gives you such close contact with the sea and so much flexibility — you can plan your route as you wish, going from island to island, stopping at whim for a swim or mooring up in a harbour to step ashore for a meal.
Sailing holidays come in three types: skippered (when you rent a boat and pay a skipper to sail it); bareboat (when you rent the boat and sail independently — for this you need to have a sailing licence); and flotilla (when a group of yachts is sailed by people of mixed ability under the guidance of a qualified expert).
Charter companies generally hire out boats on a weekly basis. Skippers are normally multilingual local experts, who can help you arrange activities such as scuba diving and windsurfing, and can also suggest things to do and see on the islands, as well as places to eat.
Greece’s biggest charter base is Alimos (also known as Kalamaki) in Athens, which makes a good launch pad for sailing the Cyclades or the Argo-Saronic Islands.
However, when considering the Cyclades, bear in mind that the meltemi wind can be fierce (often reaching 7 on the Beaufort scale) in July-August.
For a relaxing family holiday, you’d do better to sail the Ionian, where charter boats are based in Corfu and Lefkada. The Dodecanese, where boats are kept in marinas in Kos and Rhodes, is also exposed to the meltemi, but to a slightly lesser extent than the Cyclades.
Prices depend on the size, type and age of the boat, but generally work out similar to staying in a four-star hotel. For a family of four, Kiriacoulis ( kiriacoulis.com) suggests a threecabin Bavaria 36 Cruiser, available for à1 591 for one week in June 2014, plus à150 per day for a skipper. The sailing season runs from May to October, and prices rise in July-August.
Other adventure-sports activities include hiking on Crete and Amorgos; cycling on Kos; rock climbing on Kalymnos; sea kayaking around Zakynthos and Milos; scuba diving off Santorini; and windsurfing off Lefkada and Rhodes. Ecotourism Greece ( ecotourism-greece.com) offers a wealth of information. —©