A TOUCH OF OLD ITALY
Polenta warms the heart, feeds the soul and brings out the Italian in all, says Gianni Mariano
T he sublime smell of home, the scent of life, the nutty and unique fragrance of perfectly prepared polenta … Traditionally, Italians cooked polenta in a
paiolo, a copper kettle kept above the fireplace.
Polenta is about the family meal and sharing food, life, culture and blessings.
Ground maize, water and salt are the simplest of ingredients but polenta is more than the sum of its parts.
North of the Po River, polenta is regarded as civilisation itself. Prima Patria Poi Polenta! This is the name of a society formed in the 19th century to promote polenta. Literally translated, it means “first the homeland and then polenta”.
The ancient Greeks ate a porridge-like substance they called “poltos”. So “poltos” became polenta and, until the 16th century, it may have resembled a porridge but the arrival of yellow maize ennobled the dish. In a country where form and tradition are embedded in daily life, calling polenta a porridge is certainly not done!
There are two basic types of polenta, coarse and fine, and the recipes are endless, from soft polenta to the firm variation enjoyed in Bergamo, where polenta is poured into a clean cloth, which is then wrapped tightly around the steaming mass. After it has cooled slightly, the cloth is removed and the resultant compact mound is cut into slices with string. If there is a little left over, the next day it is fried in olive oil and butter with a sprig of rosemary until golden brown and served hot for breakfast.
Cooking polenta is simple but it requires time, patience and an even distribution of heat. Simply bring 2 litres of water to boil, add 400g of raw polenta (avoid pre-cooked or instant varieties). Allow it to cook until it attains a golden, glistening splendour. A thick-based pan is best, as is a wooden spoon, which will not absorb any heat. Steady stirring is required but allowing a golden crust to form on the sides of the pan infuses a unique, toasty fragrance. Polenta can be enjoyed on its own or with meat, casseroles, vegetables, fish, cheese … the list is endless.
An interesting and delicious variation is polenta concia, which means “fixed” or “treated”, where polenta is layered with cheese or sauces, such as bolognese, providing a rich and hearty one-plate meal.
Another classic, although controversial dish is polenta e osei or polenta served with little sparrows. This dish is synonymous with the Veneto region.
In Venetian dialect, a potion of polenta is a tocco, which means a touch. A
tocco de polenta warms the heart, nourishes the soul and brings out the Italian in everyone.
The following recipe is a slight variation on the classic polenta concia. You can use any sauce but I like to use a simple tomatobased sauce, which allows the more subtle flavours of the polenta to come through.
POLENTA CONCIA
2 litres water 20g coarse salt 400g polenta 150g fontina cheese, cut into small cubes A knob of butter About 500ml of sauce of your choice 120g fresh parmesan cheese, grated
Bring water to boil in a large pot. Add the salt, then add the polenta in a sprinkling motion, stirring continuously so as to avoid lumps. Allow to cook with the lid on for 30 to 40 minutes. The safe bet is to keep it from sticking to the sides of the pan but more adventurous cooks can try to let a little crust form on the sides of the pan without burning. This will give the polenta a nutty or toasty fragrance. When you are satisfied with the texture — not too soft, not too hard — remove from the heat and fold in the fontina.
Butter the inside of a medium-size ceramic oven dish. Pour or spoon in a third of the polenta, spreading it evenly on the base of the dish. Pour or spoon in a third of the sauce, spreading evenly over the polenta. Sprinkle a third of the parmesan over the sauce. Repeat the polenta layer then repeat the sauce and parmesan layers. Finish with a final layer of polenta, then sauce. At this stage, you can allow the polenta to cool. When you are ready to serve, place the dish into a pre-heated oven (around 180°C) for 15 minutes. Once done, sprinkle remaining parmesan over. Serve on its own or with meat, vegetables, fish etc.