Writers’ Block

Someone else’s stories? I am an immigrant (now a citizen) with an interest in the war history of this country. As a retired cartographer/geographer, I am interested in maps and sketches relating to SA history and have read widely and visited many sites across the whole country.

I had a look at A Field Guide to the

Battlefields of South Africa by Nicki von der Heyde but did not buy it as I was looking for something with wider coverage — my mistake. It’s sure to assist people greatly in finding places, which for me has been a time-consuming problem. There is a lot of literature on offer but a collector’s set of books covering it all would be something.

Speaking with (white) South African colleagues, I find there is not just a lack of knowledge about these places and events but generally a matter of “oh really, never heard of it”.

For them, it is not the journey but the getting to their destination that matters.

I think another reason for the apparent lack of interest in battlefield tourism is something more sinister: officialdom’s attitude to historical places. Here are some examples: 1. Mahikeng — The tourist office at the municipal buildings could not direct me to any of the town’s historical Boer War sites, even when I showed them pictures. I drove around and found them. The location of the concentration-camp cemetery makes it impossible to miss. At the museum, the Boer War section was in darkness and when I asked why they said I could file a complaint (showing me the book) or borrow a torch.

2. The Apollo Theatre in Victoria West was also without lights. The reason given was that no one had come to fix them.

3. At De Aar, the tourist office at the local council building “could not” tell me where the Ammunition Museum was. The railway junction and cemeteries (where broken tombstones were common) were overgrown, with a lot of litter around.

4. At Colenso, a major site, the site where the guns stood is neglected and the original museum is a ruin. The cemeteries, however, are well maintained.

Are they not-so-proudly South African or is it just a case of “someone else’s history”?

With a few exceptions, such as Talana and Magersfontein, South African sites are a shambles.

I have also visited Brecon in Wales to see the military museum and cathedral there. Both have proud displays that detail their link with this country. David Ratray’s son had just visited there.

One memorable visit was to Springfontein and historian Blackie de Swardt’s farm, Prior Grange. The large cemetery and blockhouse are worth seeing. The latter was rebuilt by De Swardt and his book 963 Days at the

Junction provides much insight into typical days in this spot.

I wonder how many people are aware of the history over the hill or have noticed the blockhouse not far from the road as they hurtle down the N1.