BORN again
Erika Loots spent a life-changing nine months teaching and learning in Thailand
I RECENTLY returned from a nine-month journey through Thailand, where I worked and lived in a small city called Trang (population 59 637).
Trang is the capital of Trang province. Its name is derived from a Malay word meaning “dawn” or “bright”.
The only way you can truly learn a different culture is by living, working and eating with the locals.
In Bangkok, I learnt you can get almost anything on a stick, from frogs to creepy crawlies. When I got there, my adventurous side suddenly didn’t seem so adventurous anymore.
In Thailand, there are many English teachers from across the globe, but us Saffers dominate in numbers. This is also the case in my “hometown” of Trang.
The traditional Southern Thai cuisine was to die for. There were dipping sauces made from fiery chillies that left me speechless; and rice and noodle dishes of every sort imaginable; plus eggs made in each and every way possible.
Some must-try dishes include soft shell crabs, spicy salad, tom yum, yellow egg noodle with chicken and cashew nuts, fried rice dishes and everything deep-fried. Don’t forget coconut ice cream for dessert or one of the many sweets on offer at the night markets.
The dishes sold at night markets and street stalls are among the cheapest you will find — and also the most delicious you will probably ever have.
Eating in restaurants is more expensive — and you’ll miss out on the real Thai experience of having rats and cockroaches running over your feet or having to fish the odd hair or two out of your bowl.
There are many magical places to visit in Thailand and I had to use my time wisely. Every weekend, a group of us would get on our scooters and go exploring. Only an hour out two out of Trang, there were waterfalls with rock pools, hot springs, magnificent caves and untouched beaches.
Living there, it does help to learn some Thai phrases — trying out the language, I was often rewarded with a smile or something to nibble.
Every morning at 8am and every evening at 6pm, the national anthem plays over the many speakers in the city and the whole city comes to a complete standstill. Speaking ill of the king will “win” you many enemies.
There are many Buddhist temples in Thailand and they all have interesting histories. It is required of each boy to become a monk — in this way, he learns how to be a man and a good husband and father. Much older men can return to the temple and spend the remainder of their years seeking liberation and nirvana through meditation.
There are many festivals throughout the year. One that made my hair stand on end was the 10-day Vegetarian Festival. Sacred rituals and displays of piercings and barefoot coal-walking are just some of the performances to see.
If you ever feel like a change, consider Thailand for its unspoilt reefs and beaches, delicious food, magical sunsets and amazing people. You are sure to leave feeling refreshed, perhaps even a different person. — ©