WHAT’S YOUR POISON?

S ulphites are completely harmless to the 99% of us who don’t suffer from sulphur dioxide intolerance — which typically manifests in childhood as bronchial difficulty after eating one of the many foods in which SO2 is used as a preservative, rather than in adulthood as a headache after drinking a glass or three of wine.

So those “contains sulphites” warnings have probably caused many more people than necessary to view SO2 with suspicion — crazy when you consider no warning is required for the 14 other “restricted substances” permitted in wine by the Liquor Products Act 60 of 1989, including lead, mercury and even arsenic. (In miniscule amounts, admittedly . . .)

All wines contain sulphites, because SO2 is a natural product of the fermentation process. But these days there are more and more no-addedsulphite wines available, partly in response to consumer alarm, partly because some winemakers believe that a non-interventionist approach results in purer, more expressive wines.

The risk of spoilage due to oxidation is high, which is why Audacia Wines is proud of its uniquely (and patented) South African solution — using indigenous

Aspalathus linearis (rooibos) and Cyclopia genistoides (honeybush) wood rather than oak. Long known to have antioxidant properties, the rooibos and honeybush apparently negate any need for preservatives. They don’t impart tea flavours either, judging by my sample of the Merlot 2013.

It’s early days yet and I look forward to trying future vintages, but for now — and for the same price (R180) — I prefer the Radford Dale no-addedsulphites Nudity Shiraz 2012.

Elegantly medium-bodied with mulberry and liquorice notes, it’s made from grapes grown organically in the Voor Paardeberg, without any added yeasts, fining agents, enzymes or sulphites (exclusively available at Woolworths, www.woolworths.co.za).