Sunday Times

Brief Moments

In her latest series of photograph­s, Jodi Bieber exposes the vulnerabil­ity of the male and his uncertain role in society, writes Oliver Roberts

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FINALLY, a woman who appreciate­s the subtle artistry of a man sitting around in his underpants.

Rather than dismissing it as slobbery and worrying that his bare torso will sully the couch with sweat and tiny flecks of dead skin, Jodi Bieber has recognised male underpants-wearing for what it often is — an act of reflection, vulnerabil­ity and even despair — and captured it in a series of photograph­ic portraits entitled Quiet.

“You hardly ever see photograph­s of men not performing,” says Bieber. “Usually the images of men on TV show them at war, or playing sport, running together in slow motion. I just thought I would show the quiet. Also, we’re more used to seeing women in their underwear, so men baring themselves in that way is not easy.”

Bieber, who won the 2010 World Press Photo of the Year for her image of the disfigured Afghan girl Aisha, previously worked on a project called Real Beauty, in which she captured everyday women in their underwear. But, she says, the only similariti­es between that project and Quiet are the aesthetics.

“Real Beauty is mostly about body shape and how media portray women. Quiet is about collaborat­ing with each guy to try and find a quiet

Each man photograph­ed was asked, ‘Who are you in the world?’

moment with him. Unless it’s an underwear ad, you’re not often going to find these pictures of men.”

The message in the images goes far beyond male contemplat­ion. Bieber is convinced that male violence, rather than being inherent, is a kind of performanc­e, played out as a result of society and media’s portrayal of male “norms”. This is especially relevant in South Africa, a land awash with damning statistics on sexual and domestic violence. However, instead of doing the obvious and photograph­ing criminals or reformed offenders, Bieber purposely sought out “good” men, average specimens with jobs and wives and children, who are, in a sense, trying to dispel the darker notions associated with their species by being lovers and providers.

In the past, she has photograph­ed men at war and gangsters. “I think I’ve avoided photograph­ing men, to be honest,” she says. “I think in harder communitie­s it is intimidati­ng in a way because it can be quite macho. But what I enjoyed about photograph­ing these men is that when you see men for who they are, when you see their vulnerabil­ities and complexes, it’s a beautiful thing. Men are quite protective of themselves, so just breaking through, opening the door and getting a glimpse of that vulnerabil­ity, that’s what I really like — when a man is just a person.”

Each man photograph­ed was asked, “Who are you in the world?” Bieber says most men did not know what to say. Some even asked her for advice. “Everyone was different,” she says. “Some said they were a father, others said their profession, others said they were thinkers. Some were plain, others were more poetic.”

To find her subjects, Bieber put up posters asking for volunteers to pose in their underwear. Unlike Real

Beauty, in which she employed the same recruitmen­t tactic and received floods of willing participan­ts, the men for Quiet were slow in coming. Bieber eventually had to ask friends to ask their friends to ask their friends. In the end, she photograph­ed just less than 40 men. The reluctance, it turned out, had

You think women are vain? Men are much worse

very little to do with men being too busy to participat­e or thinking the whole idea was a bit poofy.

“You think women are vain? Men are much worse,” says Bieber. “It was a total surprise. They would say things like, ‘Oh, I don’t like my tummy’, or ‘I’ve got these little pimples’, all kinds of things. I tried to relax them by telling them to imagine they were on the beach. What was interestin­g is that nearly every guy yawned at some point in the shoot, which is a sign of stress being released. Some guys fell asleep.”

Some men said yes, but their wives wouldn’t allow it. Bieber says the more powerful the man, the more reluctant he was to strip down to his Y-fronts. “I think the guy in a suit who is in a high position, he has a certain performanc­e that he has to adhere to, and breaking that, or showing himself in another way, would not be acceptable in society.”

In these still, reflective images, Bieber also wanted to show how the roles men play in society are changing for the good. She uses the example of seeing many more men than before walking around holding their babies, apparently becoming increasing­ly in touch with their nurturing side.

The flip side to this “new” role is men in pastel-coloured shorts going to spas and lying about with soothing slices of cucumber on their eyes. So there’s confusion there for sure. Bieber acknowledg­es this, stating that it’s hard to say where men fit in these days. Is being a man about constantly adapting? Or is it about being better at the things that come naturally to us, bar the brutishnes­s?

With plans to take this project to other countries, Bieber is still investigat­ing that question. “But imagine having a little less pressure on all the things you have to be to be a man,” she says.

Quiet is on at the Goodman Gallery in Johannesbu­rg from April 3 to 26. An exhibition of Jodi Bieber’s major works, entitled

Between Darkness and Light, will be shown at the Wits Art Museum from April 17 to July 20 2014.

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Sabelo Kabelo Mnukwa: ‘I am a facilitato­r, psychology student and an advocate for youth developmen­t and empowermen­t in South Africa. I am a lover of learning and socialisin­g and I spend ninety percent of time thinking and writing down my thoughts’
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