The surest shores
Nicki Grihault chooses the five best beaches on Mauritius, from the tranquil to the buzzing
YOU want beautiful beaches? Mauritius has more than 160km of them, including a calm lagoon almost entirely encircled by coral reef, so on this Indian Ocean island you won’t have to go far to find one.
All the island’s beaches are public, though hotels have subtly claimed the best ones. The north has the greatest concentration and variety, including small coves shaded by casuarina trees. The most celebrated stretches of talcum-white sand, gently sloping into a warm azure sea, are found in the glamorous east; the west coast has golden sand, shallow water and the best sunsets. Surf pounds the shore in the wilder south and offshore are Robinson Crusoe-style islands.
Here is my selection of Mauritius’s five best beaches — which is to say, five of the best beaches in the world.
GRAND BAIE
The sheltered emerald waters of lively Grand Baie are too crowded with boats for swimming, but it’s a place to get active and visit beaches nearby.
Who goes?
Those looking for a bit of buzz with their beaches. It offers shopping, drinking and dining and the widest variety of watersports on the island, from a tandem sky dive ( skydivemauritius.com) to solar sea walk ( solarseawalk.net ). Visit Mont Choisy, a long, narrow white-sand beach along a turquoise bay, the popular small cove Péreybère and La Cuvette, a long stretch with clear water and one of the island’s finest spots for swimming.
Excursions to the northern islands leave from here.
Getting there
The M2 from the airport in the southeast terminates here, so it’s a straightforward drive
or taxi ride. Plenty of buses also ply this route.
Bars and bites
Bars and clubs include The Banana Cafe and Club@Banana. International restaurants line Coastal Road, just behind the beach. Favourites include the seafood restaurant Le Capitaine ( le-capitaine.restaurant.mu) and Red Cat Beach Lounge ( sealovers.mu), a beachside bar, club and restaurant.
TROU AUX BICHES
This is a pretty, white-sand beach shaded by casuarina trees with clear shallow water and a reef close to shore. It is ideal for families and there’s plenty to do.
Divers will find some of the island’s most popular sites, from the Aquarium to sunken wrecks at Water Lily, through Atlantis International Diving Services ( atlantisdiving.info ). Deep-sea fishing trips also leave from here.
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ÎLE AUX CERFS
Named after the stags ( cerfs) that once roamed here, Mauritius’s favourite island playground is a sandbar of talcum-white sand edged by translucent water. It’s frequented by everyone from romantic couples to families and golfers. Avoid the weekend crowds, though.
Every watersport imaginable is available, from banana-boat rides and parasailing to speed boats to a “pirate” boat for children. Play a round of golf in one of the world’s most stunning settings (organise through Le Touessrok hotel; letouessrokresort.com), letouessrokresort.com), or stroll around the island (it takes a couple of hours); at low tide, wade across to tiny Île de L’Est. Or just kick back in your own private spot, with sun loungers and butler service (again, bookable through Le Touessrok).
Getting there
Half-hourly ferries run from the public beach at Trou d’Eau Douce between 8am-5pm or from Le Touessrok for hotel guests.
Bars and bites
The elegant Paul et Virginie is the spot for a decently priced seafood or grill lunch and La Chaumière Masala for an Indian thali in rustic thatched “pods” on stilts — both owned by Le Touessrok ( letouessrokresort.com). Have a Planter’s Punch at the Sands Bar.
BELLE MARE PLAGE
This pristine 10km white-sand beach is one of the most beautiful on the island, although motorised watersports can make it a bit noisy in parts. Bear in mind, though, that currents are stronger on the east coast and it is windier, which means windsurfing is an option, along with diving, of course. The Pass, the east’s most famous dive site, is found offshore.
Getting there
There’s little public transport; take a taxi or drive.
Bars and bites
There’s no shortage of fabulous restaurants and bars at exclusive resorts along this beach. A favourite is the Laguna Bar at Le Prince Maurice ( princemaurice.com). princemaurice.com).
BLUE BAY
This protected marine park has the island’s best underwater scenery close to shore and is popular with Mauritians and tourists alike.
Glass-bottom boat trips and snorkelling excursions leave from the jetty, though you can launch yourself over breathtaking coral from the coastguard’s office.
Snorkel from a trimaran around lesser visited islands in the southern lagoon with eco-operator Totof ( boatotof@yahoo.com ) or take a catamaran to Île aux Cerfs or Île aux Aigrettes with Tam Tam Travel & Tours ( tamtnt@intnet.mu). You’ll be met with a cold towel at the jetty and sparkling wine in billowing white tents on the private island Île des Deux Cocos ( iledesdeuxcocos.com ), where you can frolic on powdery beaches, snorkel and take glass-bottom boat trips into the marine park. Home-made rum tastings after a gourmet buffet lunch complete the experience.
Getting there
The bay is a 10-minute drive from the airport.
Bars and bites
Snack and drink stalls are plentiful at weekends and there’s a supermarket nearby. Go for a buffet lunch at Spices restaurant in Preskil Beach Resort (lepreskil.com), or tuck in to a fisherman special (fish, shrimps, lobster and calamari) with saffron rice and garlic sauce at L’Assiette du Pecheur ( maerienoel@yahoo.com). Try to book the table on the jetty in the barachois, where the sea and river meet.
WHAT TO AVOID
Travelling takes time. One- to two-hour drives between your hotel and the attractions are not uncommon as, apart from one major highway which snakes from the airport to Grand Baie in the north, roads are generally narrow and winding.
Driving in Mauritius isn’t for the fainthearted. Roads often have no pavements, so people and dogs step in your way.
Beware the old scam with taxi drivers getting commission from shops — this isn’t the worst place for it, but be on the safe side and get recommendations from your hotel. — ©