Cardinal Cormac Murphy O’Connor
Archbishop Emeritus of Westminster
How often do you travel?
I used to travel quite a lot when I was Archbishop of Westminster, mostly to Rome, and I represented Pope Benedict on visits to India, Bangladesh, Africa and South America. I don’t travel as much these days because I’m over 80 and retired. I occasionally go to Rome and Ireland, but that’s about it. Although I did go to Santander in Spain last year and enjoyed it very much. I like the Spaniards. They have great warmth, vitality and Christian charity.
What is your earliest travel memory?
Going to Ireland with my father in about 1943. It was a rough sea crossing and everybody seemed to get sick except me and my father. I felt quite proud. We were living in Reading, England, at the time and my father would take a house in Ireland every year for our summer holiday. What I remember most about going to Ireland was the food: plenty of eggs, butter, meat and milk. Very simple things but we were short of them back in England. The weather wasn’t always kind but I always looked forward to going.
Your favourite parts of Ireland?
West Cork, where I’ve been many times on holiday, and Kerry, where my grandmother was from. They’re both very beautiful with great and green landscapes. The green of Ireland is different from other greens in that it has a distinctiveness and a freshness that is not quite the same elsewhere. I usually go with a friend to Baltimore, near Skibbereen, and we sail and play golf.
Most spiritual destinations?
Lourdes, France, because it’s a great place for prayer, helping the sick and recognising that we all belong together and have to help and support one another. I also found Machu Picchu, high in the Peruvian mountains, a very spiritual place. Bethlehem was also very moving. I went with the then-Archbishop of Canterbury, Rowan Williams, to encourage the Christians there but also to be at the place where Jesus was born. It’s a very troubled part of the world but we must remember that the Holy Land is a land for three peoples: Muslims, Jews and Christians. We prayed that peace would come.
Where would you send a first-time visitor to Rome?
There are obvious places like St Peter’s, the Basilica of Saint Clement and the Pantheon, but Rome has something exciting around every corner. I’d also recommend going to meet the Pope during his Wednesday-morning audiences and visiting my church in Rome, Santa Maria Sopra Minerva, one of the most beautiful in the city.
To sit in a pavement café is also one of the city’s many pleasures. Rome is like a
glass of fine wine — it should be sipped, not gulped! There are other great cities in Europe — London, Paris, Venice and Florence — but Rome is eternal. Emperors, popes and dictators die but Rome, like the Tiber, journeys on.
Most adventurous travel experiences?
I did a bit of mountain climbing as a student. I was attracted by the camaraderie. I remember climbing a rock face in the Alps and a terrible electrical storm rolled in. Our guide told us to throw away our ice axes because he was worried they would attract the lightning. I thought my time was up but, looking back, it was actually very exciting.
Nowadays I prefer more sedate pursuits. I quite like boating, walking and golf.
Favourite hotel?
There was a hotel in Peru but I can’t remember the name of it. The hotel was perfectly situated on the sea. What I do remember though is being woken up by an earthquake on the first night. It felt strange but I wasn’t frightened. I’ve also stayed at a number of retreats over the years to have some quiet time to pray and read. I usually go to Benedictine monasteries in Italy, which are often in the countryside.
Best piece of travel advice?
Don’t have too much baggage, which I also think is a good rule for life.
Worst travel experience?
About 25 years ago, one of the priests from my diocese was working in Peru and we had to climb through the mountains to get to his village. It was incredibly hot and we didn’t have enough water with us and we couldn’t drink the water in the streams along the way because they were tainted. I felt faint and it was not unlike the feeling of being in a desert without water.
On another occasion I was staying in Cusco, Peru, which is at a very high altitude, and had to lie down because I was struggling to breathe. I was quite concerned but eventually the manager brought me a special green tea to calm my heart.
What do you need for a perfect holiday?
A nice companion, a journey that’s not too difficult and a place that enables me to relax. I also think it’s important to go away, as Jesus did to the hills, to pray and be alone with God.
What do you dislike about holidays?
I can’t say I dislike anything but I’m always glad to get home. It’s not because I’ve not enjoyed the holiday but I think I’m just happier there.
What has travel taught you?
That everybody has an innate dignity and that we are all, whatever country we are from, brothers and sisters. We are one world and we should strive in our own way to bring about friendship and peace.
Where next?
I wish I’d seen a bit more of the Far East — Korea, Vietnam and the Philippines — but I’m not planning any long-haul trips now that I’m over 80. Neither have I got any immediate plans to go back to Ireland, but however long I’ve got left I’m sure I will holiday there again. I always feel at home in Ireland.