Beware bread that puts a spring in your step Sunday Snarl
Additive banned in many countries is also to be found in yoga mats
MORE consumers are sitting up and taking notice of what’s in their food — and with good reason.
In a world of expedience, consumers are too often vulnerable to exploitation by unscrupulous food companies that, driven by profit and greed, flout the law.
But it’s not just the illegal ingredients that should be redflagged. Our food is filled with fillers, preservatives and additives that, although legal, may not be good for us — or even necessary.
Just because the use of routine antibiotics and growth promoters in conventional farming is allowed doesn’t mean it’s a clever idea for consumers, animals or the environment.
One such additive is azodicarbonamide (ADA), a chemical found in yoga mats and shoe rubber and, alarmingly, in bread and other baked goods.
ADA is banned in food in Europe, the UK and Australia, but is legal in the US, Canada and here.
Where it’s allowed, it’s used in low doses as a whitening agent in flour and as a dough conditioner in the baking of bread. Basically, it makes bread softer.
But at what cost? Although regulated levels of 45 parts per million (45mg per kg) are not known to be toxic, a World Health Organisation study concluded that the effects of the public’s exposure to ADA through food “could not be evaluated because of the lack of available data”.
It also said that when handled in large quantities (in factories), the chemical caused respiratory problems, including asthma.
Another concern is that during bread-making, ADA breaks down to form other chemicals, one of which, at high levels, has been shown to increase the incidence of tumours when fed to female mice.
US authorities said these studies were conducted in rodents at levels that far exceeded the estimates of human exposure from eating ADA-treated flour or bread products.
In February, the Environmental Working Group, a US environmental health research and advocacy nonprofit organ- isation, released a report titled “500 Ways to Make a Yoga Mat Sandwich”. It listed more than 500 foods containing ADA.
The report’s release followed a campaign against ADA by US consumer activist and food blogger Vani Hari, whose petition calling on Subway, the world’s largest sandwich chain, to remove ADA from its sandwiches gained more than 500 000 signatures in 24 hours. The outlet responded by announcing it was phasing out the chemical.
So how does South Africa compare? It’s a mixed bag, really. Only one large bakery, Sasko, still uses ADA, leaving the majority of major brands, such as Albany, Blue Ribbon and BB, in the clear. (See box.)
In-store bakeries at Shoprite, Checkers and Pick n Pay use some ADA premixes, although ADA-free baked goods dominate. Surprisingly, Woolworths uses ADA in its baked goods, including bread and rolls — and so do Wimpy and Steers. Burger King and McDonald’s buns are ADA-free.
The good news for consumers is that all those still using ADA have now committed to phasing it out, despite not being obliged to do so.
Pioneer Foods, which owns Sasko, has confirmed that ADA will be phased out at the latest by the end of July.
“Despite the fact that usage of ADA is regulated . . . Pioneer Foods has already completed technical work and commenced a process of exclusion over time,” said Lulu Khumalo, group executive of corporate affairs and sustainability.
“Its [ADA’s] removal will result in some differences in dough rheology and processing behaviour. However, given the alleged risks associated with ADA and resultant public concern, its removal now outweighs these benefits.”
Ditto Woolworths, whose producer has been asked to remove ADA by July. Pick n Pay said its supplier was in the process of “reformulating” to exclude ADA, and Shoprite Checkers said those suppliers still using ADA had committed to a threemonth phase-out period.
Famous Brands, which owns Wimpy and Steers, will “lead, support and welcome” any initiative to reduce or eliminate the use of ADA in its products.
Unfortunately, unlike in the US, labelling laws here don’t require the word azodicarbonamide to be listed on products. Local suppliers using ADA can simply list “flour improver” as an ingredient.
Johannesburg-based food technologist Nigel Sunley suspects that political pressure, more than actual safety concerns, has driven the ADA debate: “I am aware that there is a lot of opposition to its use . . . a lot of bakers have stopped using it.”
He said products with minimal or no food additives came at a price in terms of cost and stability and were limited to affluent consumers and those who wrongly believed they would be better off without additives. Food additives, he said, allowed for more varied, cheaper and safer food.
“Just because a particular material is used in both food and non-food applications does not necessarily mean its use in food should be questioned,” said Sunley.
I am not sure how many consumers would agree. I think it’s vital that we know and have a say about what’s in our food and equally vital that the industry takes notice.
Consumers deserve “clean”, real food. And they’re in a powerful position to demand it.
I hope empowered consumers grab that opportunity with both hands — for their own good and that of future generations.
The Power Report is taking a break. It will be back on May 18 AT DStv’s SuperSport for flashing its “S” logo on and off during rugby matches. “It is unpleasant and totally uncalled for. I’m sure I am not the only viewer who gets infuriated by this,” said Johan Marais.