Go south, young man
Jonathan Handley explores the wonders of the Falklands
L ANDING at an off-kilter angle thanks to the winds of the Furious Fifties, I arrived with a smile on my face in the remote Falkland Islands, to the east of South America in the South Atlantic Ocean.
I jumped into the back of a monstrous 4x4 and headed off to Volunteer Point. I discovered that massive tyres and raised suspension were vital to our enthralling cross-country trip, avoiding wet, peaty ground as I listened to fascinating tales from Derek.
Arriving to the scent of fresh smouldering peat, warm tea and biscuits, I was immediately blown away by the sight of penguins, penguins and more penguins. This remote spot lies on a long, pristine beach, home to magellanic and gentoo penguins as well as the largest colony of king penguins, whose vivid orange colours stand out beautifully on the green grassy background. After an awe-inspiring stay, I headed to the capital, Stanley.
I could feel the wind buffeting the car but at the same time feel the cool, crisp clean air filled my lungs while I looked out on the stone runs. These are the equivalent of the Earth’s scars, small, boulder-filled ravines with jutting rocks firmly embedded in them. They proved great for hopping between when going on walks and always brought out that little kid in me, who had once hopped along the rock pools of Cape Town.
Driving into Stanley, I couldn’t help but be captivated by this colourful town. Bright wooden houses and elaborate gardens make a walking tour of the town a must.
Heading up Dairy Paddock Road, I was able to stand face-to-face with enormous, well-preserved whale skeletons, along with a few pet deer.
Of course, any big walk deserves a bit of thirst-quenching. Microbreweries are popping up all over the place and local craft beer is a must-try for any destination. The fancy Malvina House Hotel and the more traditional English pub, the Vic — where the welcome sign reads “Husband creche” — both offer opportunities to try the locally brewed ale.
From Stanley, one can make the 25km round-trip walk to the east. As in any coastal town, a few shipwrecks tell great stories about past adventures and disasters.
The Lady Liz is perhaps one of the most spectacular in the world. This golden, rusted sailing ship is aground in the shallow waters of Stanley harbour and makes for an impressive photo in the morning light.
Walking around the foot path, I came to Gypsy Cove, with the possibility of tripping over a few sea lions. Gypsy Cove is home to a colony of magellanic penguins.
Enjoy a picnic and watch these little guys from the viewing deck as they dart in through small waves in crystal-clear water.
Then head to the end of Cape Pembroke to visit the lighthouse, but make sure you have gone past the museum in Stanley first to get the key, which is the size of your arm.
The key lets you into the small museum inside, offering insights into the life of a lighthouse keeper. Even better, it lets you onto the outside platform at the top of the lighthouse, from where, during whale season (March), you can see the sprays
from numerous whales in the surrounding waters.
Many a traveller has watched a David Attenborough documentary and said: “I wish I could be doing that.” This is what the Falkland Islands offer.
I headed out of Stanley to the smaller Sea Lion Island on an eight-seater Islander aircraft, a spectacular trip. We flew over four minke whales and arrived to a warm greeting and delicious tea and cakes, a standard on all island arrivals.
Sea Lion is famous for its killer whales. During November, one can stand less than 3m from these impressive creatures, stare into their eyes and watch them swim through a narrow gap in a natural tidal pool.
Elephant seals, which mother whales teach their calves to hunt, cover the beaches here in a big swathe as males battle it out with big grunts, smashing into each other in the quest for females.
Tiny tussock birds then pick at their backs and, despite the seals’ ferocity, they are unable to reach them.
Since they are relatively uninterested in humans, this can all be witnessed in close proximity — raw nature at its best. Never mind a 600mm lens, your good old point-and-shoot can capture that perfect shot here.
Back in the Islander, we were off to Carcass Island. Perhaps the island with the most delicious tea and cakes, it also offers a different climate on the west of the Falklands, where the crafty striated caracara, known locally as the Johnny Rook, lives in large numbers.
This raptor is one of the world’s rarest birds but turn around for two seconds and it’ll nab your lunch or your iPhone. Wait patiently and you’ll capture that perfect shot of a bird of prey your friends won’t believe was possible.
From Carcass, we boarded a former fishing boat, the Condor, and sailed across to West Point Island in about two hours. The iconic black-browed albatross nests on this island and being so close to such an impressive animal is a truly unique experience. With beautiful, mascara-stained eyebrows and white plumage like pristine snow, these birds soared gracefully just overhead, occasionally bumping into me. Their chattery calls reunited partners in front of my eyes, as loving bonds are maintained.
A sail back to Carcass and a short Islander hop got me to Saunders Island. Here, one can opt to rough it in tents at the “Swiss Hotel”, a big rock on the hillside, which offers some shelter; or stay in the self-catering porter cabin, both at The Neck.
This pristine piece of beach is home to thousands of gentoo penguins, which faithfully make their way back and forth each day to sea to get food for their chicks. A small colony of king penguins shared my breakfast spot with me.
A big walk around the island got me to the “Holy City”. Overlooking steep cliffs, this spot is an impressive home to albatrosses and small rockhopper penguins, which with grit and determination bounce their way home, up the steep cliffs, after some miraculous feats of exiting the water through crashing waves.
Overall, the Falklands offer a sensory overload: culinary delights, relaxation with a sauna/steamroom/jacuzzi combo, wildlife encounters, a rich variety of fascinating people to talk to and sunsets and sunrises that would make any honeymoon moment a perfect-postcard memory.
I can’t wait to get back there and get on board one of the yachts sailing further abroad to South Georgia or even the Antarctic Peninsula. — © Jonathan
Handley