IRISH ISLAND SMILING
Leonie Ballard-Tremeer discovers a gorgeous and tourist-free corner
W HILE staying in Galway City last summer, I decided to visit one of the islands scattered in the North Atlantic off the west coast of this part of Ireland. There are many islands, both large and small, from which to choose. Among these are well-known groups such as the Aran Islands, which have tourists flocking to them throughout the year, especially in summer.
Off the coast of County Galway, there is a mass of smaller islands. I chose to spend a summer’s day exploring one of these, namely Inishbofin Island or the Island of the White Cow. It lies 11km off the coast of Galway.
To reach Inishbofin Island, one has to take a ferry from the tiny fishing village of Cleggan. The road to Cleggan via Maam Cross takes one from Galway City across the Connemara region through one of the most beautiful parts of Ireland, the Connemara National Park.
The ferry crossing in the height of summer was smooth, across pure blue waters with glorious skies above. The ferry was full of day visitors such as myself, and folk who were going to spend a couple of nights on the island, as well as various supplies for the small number of locals and businesses there.
As we neared the island, a signal light on a spit of land slowly grew larger and finally we rounded the point to enter a gorgeous small cove with yachts dotted here and there. This was Bofin Harbour, where our ferry docked and we disembarked.
It was time to get my bearings. I looked around and saw some sheds, which contained bicycles available for hire by the hour, but apart from this there were few signs for tourists. So I made my way to the only large signboard near the dock. It featured various walks, or loops around the island. These loops were drawn on an accompanying map and graded according to the fitness level required. An estimated time to complete the walk was given. This was useful because the ferry returning to the mainland departed in four hours. I chose the Westquarter loop, traversing the western side of the island. Here one can see lovely beaches, high cliffs, blowholes (which are rare in Ireland) and a sea arch in the rocks, as well as the island’s seal colony and Iron Age ruins. The estimated time of two to 2.5 hours for the 8km route was perfect, giving me time to enjoy the scenery and stop off for my picnic lunch.
I set off on the circular loop in a northerly direction and soon realised I was the only walker on this route. Clearly most other ferry passengers had departed on other loops, or gone straight to one of the excellent swimming beaches or their B&B.
I love walking in beautiful countryside and the spectacular scenery on this walk did not disappoint. The track wound over grass, turf banks and shingle beaches. On this perfect summer’s day, I walked peacefully, drinking in the beauty around me and relishing the tranquility.
My picnic was consumed atop a hill looking out across The Stags. These are high, solitary rocks in the sea that are the result of cliff erosion. From here, I made my way back along the west coast.
Tiny, colourful wildflowers dotted the grass around me and sheep grazed contentedly, occasionally glancing at this silent intruder in their midst. I came across a secluded beach with dream-like white sands and crystal-clear waters. With the temperature at 29°C, it was too tempting to resist. The icy water refreshed me and I continued on my way, as ferry departure time was drawing near.
What a perfect day on this stunningly beautiful, unspoilt Island of the White Cow. Not a piece of litter in sight and even though a ferryload of people had arrived, it felt as though I was the only person there. Since I visited, it has been voted the best island-holiday destination in Ireland. My only complaint is that I didn’t manage to find the white cow!