ABYSINIA, KENSINGTON, JHB
Even Haile Selassie would be highly pleased by this Ethiopian eatery, says Andre van Niekerk
For the Joburg diner looking for an authentic ethnic experience, the description “African restaurant” is often ambiguous. Qunu at the Saxon, for instance, is described as “Afro-chic” but serves croissants, Scottish salmon and camembert for breakfast.
Then there are those establishments that offer hunks of animal, carved with great swords, on an eat-all-you-can basis. These are mainly for tourists, who leave with the impression that South Africans routinely consume vast quantities of crocodile, zebra and giraffe.
If you’re after something more authentically African than chakalaka with your next boerewors roll, you could do worse than seek out an eatery run by migrants from the north. Twenty years of democracy have seen a steady inflow of people from all parts of Africa and, naturally, they bring their cuisine with them. The Ethiopians are no exception.
Abysinia restaurant is run by Ethiopians for Ethiopians, and anybody else in search of an Ethiopian meal. It’s in Kensington, on the first floor of an unprepossessing edifice in an area dominated by fast-food outlets and tyre dealers. The décor reflects Ethiopian culture — draped fabrics, woven tables, prints depicting Ethiopian life and culture, and films of Ethiopian dance run on big-screen TVs. It was quiet on the evening we visited; on Friday and Saturday nights a live band and traditional dancing add some spice.
The basis of the Ethiopian meal is injera ,a sourdough flat-bread with a spongy texture, traditionally made from teff flour (AA Gill once described it as a cross between a nappy and a crumpet). The injera serves as both crockery and cutlery; it is usually topped with a variety of spicy but not-too-hot stews made with lentils, beans, and vegetables, and poultry, beef and lamb. Also on the menu is a variety of tibs, or cuts of berbere-spiced grilled meat; doro wat (berbere-spiced chicken stew); and kitfo, an Ethiopian-style steak tartare.
The menu is in Amharic, with English translation, but it’s best if you’re a novice to ask for help. The waiter recommended the mahberawi , a selection of main dishes served in small portions, with the shekla tibs (beef cooked in a clay pot) accompanied by a berbere sauce (a mix of dried chilli and other spices). The mahberawi was served with injera , all on a large platter. The bean-and-lentil-based stews were particularly tasty, aromatic and subtly spiced.
The service was friendly and attentive. Abysinia offers local beers and wines, plus the traditional Tej honey wine (R15 a carafe) and Tallah Ethiopian beer (R20 a carafe). The traditional coffee ceremony, where coffee beans are roasted at the table, comes at R10 per person and should be ordered in advance.
If you’re feeling adventurous and looking for an authentic experience, Abysinia offers all of that and exceptional value for money. Most dishes come in at R30 to R50.
Corner Langerman Drive and Queen Street, Kensington 011 615 3128