THE RESTAURANT
Joanne Gibson tries a new Cape Town restaurant dedicated to the low-carb, high-fat Banting diet advocated by sports scientist Tim Noakes
My late dad was almost violently opposed to “vegetarian food” and I’m certain it’s because his vegetarian cousin kept foisting chicken and meat substitutes on him instead of simply showcasing vegetables in all their glorious diversity of flavour and texture.
For similar reasons, I can’t get terribly excited about low-carb, high-fat (LCHF) lasagne in which the pasta has been made from psyllium husks and cream cheese, or risotto made from cauliflower rice (although I find cauliflower mash, in its own right, far more delicious than the potato staple). Still, when a waiter named Brilliant told me that the Grannies Banting Lasagna (sic, R105) was the most popular item at The Banting Kitchen in Green Point, I had to give it a go.
I shouldn’t have. It wasn’t the “floating in oil dish” I’ve since seen someone describe it as on Food24, and it certainly wasn’t tasteless (very well-seasoned in fact), but a forkful of my cousin’s succulent Oriental Spiced Cream Cheese Chicken Supreme (R115) made me wish Brilliant hadn’t talked me out of ordering the Braised Pork Belly with sweet potato mash, wilted spinach and onion relish (R148).
Like those bits of tofu pretending to be chicken that offended my dad so much, Banting pasta that disintegrates in a small bowl of Bolognaise is not going to reduce any carb cravings (not that you’re supposed to have those if you “Bant” properly). But why not use more nutritious sheets of marrow or aubergine instead? Similarly, I haven’t yet found a low-carb burger I really like. (The Banting Kitchen offers a “gourmet burger” for R89 but I’m not really tempted after finding their bread quite salty.)
In my experience, the best low-carb foods are those which don’t attempt to be carb substitutes but are delicious in their own right. A perfectly grilled steak with salad; roast chicken with veggies; a bacon and mushroom omelette oozing cheese (just hold the toast).
“Eating out is so difficult when you’re Banting” is a complaint I’ve heard from many converts following Real Meal Revolution recipes at home, and duly flocking to The Banting Kitchen (one hopes, for this dedicated LCHF restaurant’s sake). But I haven’t found it difficult at all. From Knead with its low-carb bread and pizza bases to Kauai with its curry and cauliflower rice (and wraps coming soon!), even large franchises are accommodating the “revolution” these days. And apart from one V&A Waterfront waiter who sneered, “Don’t tell me Noakes has got to you, too,” nobody seems to flinch when I request roasted vegetables or spinach instead of pasta or potatoes.
I suspect what The Banting Kitchen does best is the dishes it perfected in its previous incarnation as Bistro 1800° — the steaks, most obviously, from the 200g rump or sirloin for R145 to a 300g Chateaubriand for R215. Chef Ryan Brand has excellent credentials, having honed his skills at Granny Mouse Country House & Spa in the KwaZulu-Natal midlands.
In short, I enjoyed my crispy Salt & Pepper Calamari starter (R65), coveted my cousin’s main course, and loved the creamy texture, brownie crust and berry coulis of the Baked Cheesecake we shared for dessert (R59). These are professionally rendered examples of the “wholesome, good food” that makes the Banting/LCHF lifestyle so easy to follow. As the menu puts it, “Listen to your body, not just anybody,” which is good advice clearly pertaining to charming waiters named Brilliant, too.
Cape Royal Hotel, 47 Main Road, Green Point, Cape Town, (021) 430 0506 www. thebantingkitchen.co.za