See sundaytimes.co.za for a Golden Gate slideshow

one of two scenic loops to go cycling off the main road (R712).

The Oribi Loop offered smooth riding yet the 4km involved sustained slopes, requiring effort from a nine-year-old on his first road cycle.

At a vulture-feeding station along the loop, we dismounted and went for a walk. The bearded vultures that fly over the foothills of the Maluti Mountains were elusive despite the carcasses strewn about.

That night, it started to rain. In her dry tent, Marianne slept undisturbed; as did Zade, who woke up to find rivulets on our floor.

To warm up, we went to Sugar & Cinnamon coffee shop on the outskirts of the park and, after pancakes, were willing to get wet again.

We had booked a horse ride in the park but apparently horses don’t like getting wet and it was cancelled.

In the future, on rainy days, visitors will be able to visit an activity hub for the dinosaur site. The only educational tour at present takes place at a Basotho cultural village. There, a sangoma had foreigners waiting in line for his predictions.

The village has a rest camp on the outskirts but we found a chalet for the night across from the imposing Sentinel rock formation.

The next day, Zade and I did a surprisingly easy hike to the top. From the summit, we waved to Marianne, who had climbed the opposite slope, then wound our way down.

The park has short trails and one overnight hike through its 11 000ha, though climbing on the sandstone cliffs of the northeastern Free State is not that safe.

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