KERALA: Seafood and spice ports
whole spices are common but not obligatory, and the inclusion of chilli is by no means compulsory.
A knowledge of what to look out for in each region is imperative. These are the places I would recommend on a food-inspired tour. GUJARAT: Thalis and Jain vegetarianism On a walk in Ahmedabad’s old city, in Gujarat, guide Nirav led me through a labyrinth of narrow lanes between ancient mosques, temples, markets, courtyards, street-food stalls and bazaars. By the time it ended at The House of MG, I was more than ready for the thali lunch we had booked in its rooftop Agashiye restaurant.
As soon as we sat down, brass bowls and giant plates (but no cutlery) were placed in front of us as a man poured warm water from an old brass jug so I could wash my hands. Wave after wave of waiters arrived, each delivering a new dish. My taste buds popped with pleasure over the rolls of yellow chickpea-flour pasta sprinkled with mustard seeds and curry leaves called khandvi, mini dhokla cakes of savoury sponge, wonderfully aromatic kadhi curd soup, fresh-baked flat breads and dozens of perfectly spiced vegetable dishes, dhals and chutneys.
Nirav explained that Gujarati food culture was dominated by Jainism, a religion that regards all life as so sacred that not only is every dish strictly vegetarian but it is also made without anything that grows below ground in case the harvesting harms insects — not even garlic or onion. Kerala has a plethora of places offering hands-on cooking experiences, from the family kitchens of rural “homestay” properties to luxury beach resorts along the Malabar Coast. The home of pepper, turmeric and cardamom, Kerala, with its spice ports on the Arabian Sea, has been attracting Jewish, Arab, Oriental and European traders for thousands of years. They in turn have introduced new spices such as chilli, cumin, ginger and coriander to create a cosmopolitan and diverse cuisine.
My introduction came at the cooking school at Neeleshwar Hermitage, a wonderfully relaxed eco-resort on Kerala’s northern coast. Under the guidance of the resort’s chefs, we chose fish straight from fishermen’s nets at dawn, then harvested our own organic vegetables on a neighbouring farm. Later, we did red chilli prawns peralan, fish poached in coconut milk with curry leaves and some excellent Ayurvedic vegetarian thorans in the beachside kitchen. TAMIL NADU: Banana leaves and dosas A spectacular train ride over the hills of the Western Ghats, through lush