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the huge Jaama el Fna open market, we find our lodgings behind a magnificent cedar-wood door, with the rooms looking inward onto a central pool. A rooftop garden provides panoramic views and sunsets are spectacular, minarets in every direction with the Atlas Mountains a faraway backdrop.

Armed with sound advice from Tim, our hotel manager, we negotiate the alleys back to the square for a meal and some shopping. The Jamaa el Fna is Morocco’s largest, most famous market square, bustling with traders. A chaotic wash of colour and sound engulfs us.

Fresh orange juice, nuts, olives, sweetmeats and fresh fruit are all reasonably priced. Musicians and storytellers arrive to dance and sing. This unique Berber display takes place every evening, primarily for locals, and serves as entertainment and news, played out in song and dance from the various regions.

Meals are eaten with fresh bread in a meze style directly from vendors at their tables. Moroccan cuisine is a blend of Berber, Arab, Andalusian and French cooking and all is prepared with cumin, garlic, paprika and turmeric.

The maze of souks north of the square keep the market buzzing till midnight. Traders gather in “souks” — areas within the market, where vendors are grouped by goods — the cosmetic souk, clothing, olives, jewellery, lamps, herbs, antiques and so on.

Warm service, delicious food and Berber music create an exotic Arabian Nights atmosphere.

The next day we visit the 12th century Koutoubia Mosque, one of a trio that epitomises the Almohad culture in North Africa and Spain — the others being in Rabat and Seville.

We catch a caleche, a mule-drawn carriage, around the walls of the Medina, heading to the Jardin Majorelle. Created by artist Jacque Majorelle over a 40-year period between 1886 and 1962, it was bought in a derelict state in 1980 by Yves St Laurent and his partner, who restored it. It now houses a monument to St Laurent and his ashes are scattered in the garden. In Islam, gardens are earthly imitations of paradise and this is a fine example. Its features include a range of cacti and plants collected worldwide, set amid fountains and streams.

Mid morning, we hail a taxi back to the Artisanal Market, where traders conduct business in a more westernised fashion. An abundance of art, mosaics and jewellery challenge the credit cards. Then it’s a the faint-hearted, this hands-on process involves labouring in tanks filled with lime and pigeon guano, creating a stench hard to ignore.

Then a short visit to the Saadian Tombs, where 66 members of a family that ruled for over 200 years lie. The mosaic tombs were rediscovered in 1917 by the French in aerial photographs shot during the war.

Our last stop was the Medina. One needs at least three days and a good budget to absorb the exotic trading culture. Spending and eating too much are commonplace, but there is no better way to experience Arabian Africa. — © Mark Lewis

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