Sunday Times

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S we stepped off the plane, we were welcomed at once by the thick wave of Zanzibar heat that would linger for the seven days that followed, but which we’d soon come to embrace.

Our experience at the airport involved long queues, forms to fill out, self-sourced pens and an eagerness to be out as quickly as possible. Essentiall­y, it was like a trip to Home Affairs.

An extraordin­ary thing to note is that we were travelling in a group of 26 — our whole family. The miracle of the trip was that we all made it there and back without any setbacks — lost luggage, ailments or waterdamag­ed phones (for which we were all fully prepared).

We travelled to and from places in a blue minibus, always accompanie­d by the most wonderful tour guides, who spoke with such reverence and pride about their country — the absence of serious crime, the combined cultures of Zanzibar and how their president is restoring order and making positive changes that are in the best interests of the people.

They also told us that South Africans are among the biggest tourists in Zanzibar, and they are strongly under the impression that “South Africans love to drink”.

The view from the bus window on our trips was always the same: small, unplastere­d houses; people sitting outside in conversati­on, often smiling; plenty of young children, the tiny girls in their headscarve­s; picturesqu­e palm trees; a variety of grouped vegetables on tables; and lots and lots of green.

It was a truly magnificen­t scene, one that filled me with awe at a way of life so simple yet seemingly content — and different to mine in every possible way. Later on when I think back to Zanzibar, I feel it will be this view I will think about first and the remarkable way it made me feel.

The change of scenery from the bus to My Blue Hotel, where we would be staying, was abrupt and unanticipa­ted. But suddenly we were at the centre of a Windows desktopwal­lpaper image — how else does one describe such an impeccably pristine and beautiful view? It was the sort of image your mind sees whenever you hear the word “paradise”. Anyway, we found paradise, you guys. It’s in Zanzibar.

The beach was perfectly placed at the bottom of a straight path that ran down the centre of the resort. And the ocean seemed unreal. It looked like the most colossal, well-maintained swimming pool in the history of the world, with its perfect blue hues and transparen­cy, most extraordin­ary to look at. And we were often deep within it to welcome the sunsets. Those moments were so magical they were truly some of the

In Stone Town, we got to engage with more people. It was this that I loved the most. Without any photos or even knowing their names, these moments of interactio­n are the ones I will keep in my heart forever.

A few days later, we went snorkellin­g — a package called Safari Blu which we got for $25 per person, about $50 off the normal price (such are the perks of travelling with 25 other people). This was a journey of its own, a 1km walk in swampy sea water in silent fear of stepping on sea urchins, before a dream-like cruise on a dhow; an unexpected dolphin sighting; swimming in glorious sea water; a lobster feast; and of course the actual snorkellin­g, which was completely surreal and fun and unforgetta­ble.

And then we left Zanzibar and all its magic. For a moment it felt like I had imagined the whole thing.

But, arriving back home, I felt different: enriched, with a bigger, fuller heart, substantia­l sunburn — “that Zanzibar glow”, my friend assured me, and a yearning to just keep on travelling. — © Almaz Moonsamy

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