WHEN YOU’RE TIRED OF LONDON ... GET UP EARLIER
Roger Lee discovers that the city offers a spectacular experience in the dawn
Millions of people visit London every year and spend their time ticking off the “must sees”: The Tower, St Paul’s Cathedral, Trafalgar Square, Tower Bridge and so on. No debate, London is a fascinating city and well organised for tourists. But there is a London that just about no one ever sees: Early Morning London. I am a keen photographer and, as such, am always trying to get images that are somewhat different from the norm. This is what has led me to discover this wonderful time in London.
We visit family there once a year and I alway take the opportunity to catch the first Tube of the day from our station at 5.15am, which takes me to Westminster. Or, I can catch the Thameslink to Blackfriars Station on the Thames, which leaves at 4.45am.
At this time of day, all the stations are basically empty. Once you emerge into the open, there is a whole new world just waiting. Everything is fresh and crisp and the gathering morning light of the sunrise can be just beautiful.
As you leave Westminster Station, the sight of the river and the London Eye on the opposite bank is truly impressive.
If you walk alongside the Thames or cross a bridge, you’ll see delightful reflections in the river — boat traffic has hardly had time to ruffle the surface.
GO PLAY IN THE ’TRAFFIC’
The London Eye is stationary and you will have Trafalgar Square almost to yourself — with luck, you’ll see the bird handlers flying their hawks in an attempt to scare away the pigeons.
St Paul’s Cathedral and the Millennium Bridge are so different in this light. If you stand in the middle of the bridge, with the odd jogger and cyclist passing by, you’ll feel an amazing sense of freedom.
Walking through the financial City district will give you an opportunity to really appreciate the modern architecture — those buildings with the wonderfully descriptive names, including The Gherkin, The Cheese Grater and The Scalpel.
If you get off the Tube at London Bridge Station, it is an easy walk along the Thames to Tower Bridge and The Tower of London. Again, the dearth of people and the beautiful morning light make this a special experience.
THE STREETS WAKE
Walking out on London Bridge itself will give you a striking view of Tower Bridge in the distance with HMS Belfast in the foreground. The Shard on the right completes the tableau. The morning sky lighting up in the background can make this a very striking image.
From about 6am, when you start feeling like a cup of coffee, some coffee shops will begin to open and you can even have a muffin to keep you going.
Obviously, you won’t be able to do all this in one morning outing. That unique feeling tends to disappear once the sun is up. Also the traffic, both vehicle and pedestrian, build up as you start to become part of the early morning rush hour.
By around 8am, it is time to think of a return train trip and you will find the Underground stations transformed.
There are very few people going in your direction — and a flood of humanity coming the other way, who all tend to look at you with envy.
Of course, if you are staying in Central London, all you need to do is walk out of the front door to be in a whole new world.
Once you’ve tried visiting Early Morning London, you will feel the need to do it again and again as you visit all the special sites.
You can also enjoy the slightly smug feeling that you are experiencing what so many people are missing.
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