ALONG FOR THE GLIDE
Neville Green cruises the canals of Venice, where cars are useless but boats are king
Venice is such a surreal city that you can’t quite fathom the feel of as you arrive. Sure, there’s water in place of asphalt and no cars, motorbikes, scooters or buses; but soon you realise that this city’s sounds are unique too. The vaporettos purr and small waves caress the majestic buildings of the Grand Canal and the narrow arteries. Venice is awash with colour and reflections. Even the clothes lines, stretching across windows and adorned with the family laundry, which you’d find appalling elsewhere, have an appeal here.
We had landed at Marco Polo airport and, after a short walk to the ferries, were soon headed towards our stop at the Madonna dell’Orto church.
The attached monastery, Casa per Ferie Patronato Pio IX, is just a few hundred metres from the ferry stop and offers wonderful accommodation.
WORLD OF BRIDGES
Venice is a city to see by walking and by gliding in water buses along the Grand Canal or in gondolas on the narrow canals.
It comprises the mainland and 118 islands in the Venetian Lagoon, which are connected by 400 bridges.
The history of the birth and development of this city is fascinating and the architecture of the buildings, sitting right on the water’s edge, is awe-inspiring. In Venezia, boats are king.
The police, ambulances, garbage removers and delivery people all use boats in some shape or form and tourists clamber on and off the vaporettos in droves.
There is a tempting array of gelato flavours and the many bakeries supply superb pastries and special treats. We headed through busy alleyways and over arched bridges to Piazza San Marco, where the impressive Basilica di San Marco attracts thousands of visitors daily.
The square is the largest open area in Venice and at times can be flooded — they call it “Acqua Alta” (high water) — due to rising tides and storm surges. We watched as crowds of tourists tried crossing the piazza without getting their shoes wet. Some threw them off and splashed through with glee.
A man in a wheelchair tackled the ankledeep water without a care.
The Campanile, the bell tower of St Mark’s Basilica, looms over the square and restaurants spill out their tables and chairs for tourists to relax and enjoy.
A HOP-ON, HOP-OFF BOAT
We bought a 24-hour, hop-on, hop-off vaporetto ticket, and were up early the next day to make the most of it.
The Grand Canal has a soothing, almost therapeutic effect during the pre-rush hour and the views on both sides are astonishing.
It takes some time to realise that you are in this unbelievably beautiful city. You’ve seen the pictures, but nothing really prepares you for these sights.
We glided under the famous Rialto Bridge — completed in 1591, it is the oldest in Venice. Every now and then, we would hop off to explore another alleyway, another treasure, another market.
By chance we discovered the Fondaco dei Tedeschi, a 16th-century trading hall that’s now a modern department store, the epitome of elegance with expensive perfumes and fashion.
On the rooftop of this stunning store is a terrace with the most magnificent view over the Grand Canal, from where we saw the sun set on our second day.
SIGH AND SIGH SOME MORE
On our final day, we tracked down the famous Bridge of Sighs, built in 1600, by following a large crowd.
Legend has it that sighing prisoners got their last look at beautiful Venice as they crossed this white limestone bridge, heading to their cells under The Doge’s Palace.
Further north is Burano, an island reminiscent of our own Bo-Kaap but with an Italian twist. The candy coloured houses add to the charm of this wonderful town, renowned for its lace creations. Local women sit in the piazza practising their craft and showcasing their artistry.
“The Queen of the Adriatic” is truly a remarkable city that leaves an indelible impression on everyone who has the privilege of seeing its unrivalled beauty.
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