MADRID: ‘MENU DEL DIA’
From shopping to dancing to dining, Kate Sidley has the perfect ‘menu of the day’
9AM BREAKFAST
Don’t rush out for breakfast, Madrileños are not early risers. When you do, try tostada
con tomate y aceite (bread with crushed tomato and olive oil) along with your café con leche (coffee with milk).
10AM MUSEUM
The Prado hosts a magnificent collection of European art, from the 12th to the early 20th century, including famous Spanish artists Diego Velázquez and Francisco José de Goya. Tips: go while you’re fresh (it’s big); pay the few euros for the audio guide; and don’t miss Hieronymus Bosch’s The Garden
of Earthly Delights or Caravaggio’s David and Goliath.
11.30AM SNACK TIME
Churros con chocolate are a Spanish treat, often eaten mid-morning. Churros are long, thin, fried dough that is crispy on the outside and spongy on the inside (think “skinny, crisp doughnut”). They are typically served hot from the frier, with a cup of thick, melted chocolate to dip into. There are churros places all over the city, but locals swear by Chocolatería San Ginés, which has been serving them since 1894.
NOON SHOPPING
From here, you are just a few minutes’ walk from Gran Via, Madrid’s bustling shopping road with a good mix of chains and boutiques (as well as eateries, bars, casinos and theatres). All the big local brands are there, including Zara and Desigual, as well as El Corte Inglés, the upmarket department store, with big international labels such as Chanel and Dior. Don’t leave town without at least one pair of Spanish-made shoes. Alpargatus is a reasonably priced local chain that’s in every shopping district and has lots of choice — you can’t go wrong with a pair of espadrilles or leather sandals.
Alternatively, skip the high street and head for the trendy Malasaña district for vintage and second-hand shopping. On Calle Velarde alone, there are a dozen outlets.
Calle Velarde is also home to Le Pecera, the first taiyaki ice-cream shop in Madrid. The fish-shaped waffle cone filled with soft serve is probably the most Instagrammable ice cream you’ll find. Our pick? The chocolate waffle with matcha soft serve.
1.30PM LUNCH
Lunch is called “la comida” or “the meal”, and it’s often the main meal of the day. It starts late at around 1.30pm (lucky you had that ice cream!). Treat yourself to The Cafe de Oriente, in the former San Gil Convent, facing Madrid’s Royal Palace. The menu is upscale modern Spanish. The cafe menu is more everyday fare, which you can eat on the outside terrace, enjoying the views and the people-watching. Wherever you go, investigate the menu del día — meal of the day — a starter, main and drink at a reasonable price.
3PM PARK OFF
There’s an odd dead time in the mid afternoon, when the bustle dies down and smaller shops and businesses close. Take a siesta, or get some fresh air and exercise at the Buen Retiro Park. Hire a bike and tour the lovely gardens right in the centre of the city. Stop at the lake where locals gather to sunbathe, picnic or row boats. Don’t miss the beautiful glass palace, modelled on London’s Crystal Palace.
5PM SNACK TIME
Yes, again, but you’ve been walking! A
bocadillo (sandwich) is just the thing to tide you over to supper. Pop in to Cafe El Brillante (Plaza Emperador Carlos) and order the
bocadillo de calamares. There’s not a green in sight — just good baguette, fried calamari, mayo and a squeeze of lemon. Yum! Or head for Museo del Jamon, squeeze in with the locals at the bar and order a cold beer and a delicious roll with excellent Spanish ham, for a euro or two.
7PM MUSEUM
From Monday to Saturday, from 7pm to 9pm, there’s free admission at the glorious Reina Sofia, the national museum of 20th-century art. The focus is on Spanish art, including wonderful examples of Salvador Dalí, Joan Miró, Juan Gris and Pablo Picasso’s work. Picasso’s Guernica is perhaps its most famous artwork, and it is stunning. Don’t miss all the small studies that he made for the big piece, or the photographic record of its creation. (Closed Tuesday.)
9PM SUPPER
No rush. Supper time is juuuust beginning. If you had an excellent lunch, consider tapas in one of the city’s lively squares. Traditionally, your drink is served with a snack — perhaps a slice of tortilla (potato omelette), a bowl of olives or crispy fried croquettes. Order more dishes, or move on to the next spot. A tapas bar crawl is a gastronomic journey of deliciousness which allows for plenty of variety, traditional or modern.
San Miguel food market in Plaza San Miguel has about 30 stalls, each offering up specialities, including cheese, cured meats and wine. It’s madly popular, with communal tables and bar counters.
10.30PM FLAMENCO
A tablao is a place where Flamenco shows are performed, with Spanish guitar and percussion and singers and dancers. You’ll pay around à50, probably with a drink thrown in. It’s a bit of a tourist trap, but worth it. There are venues around the city and most, such as Cardamomo and Corral de la Moreria, offer shows every day.