Or­ganic Ir­ish beef bil­tong? Must be

Sunday Times - - Fashion News - ● L S. © The Sun­day Tele­graph

The North­ern Ir­ish cap­i­tal is set for a tourist boom, no small thanks to its cre­ative use of lo­cal pro­duce, writes Andy Lynes

It’s a mark of how much North­ern Ire­land has changed that the Bal­moral Show — the re­gion’s largest agri­cul­ture and food event — is held ev­ery May in Lis­burn on what was the site of the Maze, the prison that housed para­mil­i­tary pris­on­ers dur­ing the Trou­bles.

I’d been in­vited to help judge the stands in the NI Food Pav­il­ion — no small task, with nearly 100 pro­duc­ers to ap­praise, from ar­ti­san choco­late man­u­fac­turer NearyNógs Stone­ground Choco­late to big brands such as Tayto crisps.

Af­ter a day sam­pling ev­ery­thing from Rooney’s Mill­bay oys­ters (from Car­ling­ford Lough) to grid­dled trea­cle soda bread (from The Krazi Baker in Belfast), the best prod­uct awards went to the Triple Rose — a silken, savoury triple-cream cheese made by Bal­lylisk, from Ar­magh — and a 100% or­ganic Ir­ish beef bil­tong with a sup­ple tex­ture and beau­ti­ful spic­ing, made by ar­ti­san pro­ducer Ke Nako in Bal­ly­clare.

I was stay­ing in Belfast and, as we en­tered the city, my taxi driver pointed out a build­ing site and told me that nine ho­tels were due to open over the next two years, in­clud­ing the 63-bed­room, £15-mil­lion Ge­orge Best Ho­tel sched­uled for Septem­ber.

The Belfast Tele­graph has re­ported no fewer than 27 on­go­ing ho­tel projects that would bring the to­tal num­ber of rooms in Belfast to more than 7 000 — dou­ble the cur­rent num­ber.


So, what will all those vis­i­tors to the city be eat­ing? I’ve been com­ing to Belfast for more than 20 years and have al­ways been struck by the imag­i­na­tive use of abun­dant lo­cal pro­duce.

Nowhere is this more ap­par­ent than at Miche­lin-starred OX (ox­, over­look­ing the River La­gan, where chef Steven To­man serves ex­quis­ite tast­ing menus based around sea­sonal pro­duce sourced from lo­cal sup­pli­ers. A stun­ning spring din­ner in­cluded ten­der rack and rump of lamb from the Mourne Moun­tains with roasted cau­li­flower.

At Noble (no­ble­holy­, an in­ti­mate first-floor restau­rant in the nearby town of Holy­wood, you’ll find some of the best meat in the coun­try, sup­plied by Peter Han­nan, who, at his fa­cil­ity in Moira, ages Ir­ish short­horn beef in a cham­ber lined with bricks made of pink Hi­malayan salt.

On the night I was there, chalk­board spe­cials in­cluded a steak aged for a whop­ping 70 days, mak­ing for par­tic­u­larly ten­der and full-flavoured flesh.

Back in the ’90s, the “Golden Mile” just south of the city cen­tre was the place to go, with TV chef Paul Rankin’s Cayenne at its epi­cen­tre in Shaftes­bury Square. It re­ally was heart­break­ing to see the place now derelict (it closed in 2013) and the sur­round­ing area look­ing run down.


The Cathe­dral Quar­ter has re­placed the Golden Mile as the city’s new food and drink hot spot.

Its nu­mer­ous restau­rants, cafés and bars in­clude the newly opened East­ern Mediter­ranean brasserie Buba (buba­, the hip Mud­dlers Club (the­mud­dler­, the

ca­sual-din­ing Had­skis (had­ and the op­u­lent Mer­chant Ho­tel

(the­mer­chan­tho­ with its im­pres­sive Vic­to­rian in­te­ri­ors and bling cock­tail bar.

Cayenne may be long gone, but its global and fu­sion ap­proach to food is alive and well else­where in the city.

For­mer head chef Andy Rea runs the ca­sual Home restau­rant

(home­, close to Belfast City Hall, where you’ll find miso broth with tofu, shi­itake, brown rice, white radish, nori, edamame and pick­led gin­ger on the menu.

His nearby fish restau­rant, Mourne Seafood (mour­ne­, serves shell­fish from its own beds — in­clud­ing a Cayenne clas­sic: salt and chilli squid with Napa slaw, chilli jam and mayo. Rea is also a part­ner in La Ta­que­ria

(lata­que­ri­, which serves au­then­tic Mex­i­can dishes such as que­sos

fun­di­dos — a kind of fon­due with spicy pork — and some wickedly po­tent cock­tails.

By the end of the meal I was knock­ing back neat tequila with the restau­rant man­ager.

With Brexit still an un­known quan­tity in North­ern Ire­land, and with no prop­erly func­tion­ing de­volved gov­ern­ment, there is a lot more change to come in the re­gion. But if my ex­pe­ri­ence over the past 20 years is any­thing to go by, the love of good food and a great time will al­ways re­main.


CITY OF IN­DUS­TRY A view of Belfast over the River La­gan.

Pic­ture: buba­

DIP IN Some of the Mediter­ranean fare on of­fer at Buba.

Pic­ture: the­mer­chan­tho­

VIC­TO­RIAN IN­SIDE Ex­ec­u­tive chef Pa­trick Leonard at the op­u­lent Mer­chant Ho­tel.

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