A SLUMBER BY THE BATTLEFIELD
LOCATION
On the side of the iNyoni hill, overlooking the wide sweep of the Isandlwana battlefield, near Nqutu, KwaZulu-Natal. It is from this hill that the Zulu commanders directed their warriors during the battle of Isandlwana on January 22 1879.
STYLE
Much of the lodge is built out of stone with an open-thatched roof, blending beautifully with its surroundings. Indeed, the lodge seems to almost melt into the side of the hill — exactly what the architects intended.
Tall French doors and panoramic windows let in the light and offer a fantastic view of the battlefield and the distant, mountainous folds of central KwaZulu-Natal. The walls are lined with Zulu and British militaria and there is an excellent diorama showing the battle.
Outside, wooden deckchairs line the wide, shaded verandah to offer the same bird’s-eye view that was denied the British commanders on that fateful day.
On the lower level are just 12 luxury rooms — a fusion of modern and traditional styles — all with views across the plain.
SERVICE
The lodge staff — all from the local community — were personally trained by the lodge owners and it shows: nothing is too much trouble and everything is done with a smile. The team is led by your hosts, Roz and Shane, who are always on hand, it seems, to answer any question or maybe tell you a story.
HOW’S THE GRUB?
Simple, home-cooked fare such as vegetable soups, quiches, roast beef and garden-fresh salads — all in generous proportions. All the guests eat dinner at the same time — you may even join one large table, if you’re the outgoing sort — so the atmosphere is lively.
ACTIVITIES
The main attraction is the battlefield itself. Attached to the lodge is Lindizwe Dalton Ngobese, whose great-grandfather’s homestead was one of the first to be attacked by the British invaders in January 1879 — he is one of the best battlefields guides in the land.
Tour the battlefield and nearby Rorke’s Drift with Ngobese or other guides, take day trips to the Prince Imperial Monument or the Talana Museum in Dundee and visit a nearby village for a glimpse into the daily lives of the people who live here. There is superb mountain-biking on quiet gravel roads — or you could just sit on the deck with a pair of binoculars, listening to the birds and gazing at the distant, mysterious hills.
BEST TIME TO GO
All year round. It will be hot in summer but not unpleasantly so, but it can get very chilly in winter, when you may find it difficult to leave the log fire in the lounge.
FACILITIES
There is the obligatory conference room, and a lovely pool in the lee of the cliff. The lodge also has an excellent library whose books, naturally, include just about everything ever written about the Anglo-Zulu war.
RATES
From R3 600 per person per night, sharing.
CONTACT
See isandlwana.co.za Ash was a guest of Isandlwana Lodge