Sunday Times


Work­ing-class fam­i­lies of 19 dif­fer­ent na­tion­al­i­ties lost loved ones in the Gren­fell Tower fire. As Lon­don took a hard look at what the tragedy said about mod­ern Bri­tain, the peo­ple of West Lon­don drew on their mul­ti­cul­tural her­itage to share fam­ily dishe

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(Kuku Paka)

When I was grow­ing up I hated cook­ing. My fam­ily is from In­dia and pre­par­ing big meals for the ex­tended fam­ily was part of our cul­ture, but I used to beg for any job other than cook­ing. Then I got mar­ried and moved to Africa and sud­denly every­thing changed – I be­gan call­ing my mother and ask­ing her for recipes. She told me: ‘Cook­ing for some­one you love is what makes you a good cook.’ This curry is a par­tic­u­lar favourite of my fam­ily in Tan­za­nia.

Serves 4

1 large chicken, jointed into 8 pieces, ex­cess skin trimmed away

1 large ripe tomato, roughly chopped

1 onion, quar­tered

15g fresh root gin­ger, peeled

4 gar­lic cloves, peeled

6 ser­rano chill­ies, stems re­moved and de­seeded (use fewer if you pre­fer milder cur­ries)

10ml (2 tsp) ground cumin

5ml (1 tsp) ground co­rian­der

5ml (1 tsp) ground turmeric

30ml (2 tbsp) co­conut oil

2 x 400ml tins co­conut milk

3 eggs, hard-boiled, peeled and halved

Juice of ½ le­mon

Salt and pep­per

10g fresh co­rian­der, chopped, to gar­nish To serve:

Rice, cha­p­atis or flat­breads

Score each piece of the chicken in two or three places, slic­ing about 1cm into the meat.

Put the tomato, onion, gin­ger, gar­lic, chill­ies, cumin, co­rian­der, turmeric and some salt and pep­per into a food pro­ces­sor and blend to a rough paste. Rub one-third of the paste all over the chicken, into the cuts and un­der the skin; re­serve the rest of the mix­ture.

Re­frig­er­ate the chicken for at least 1 hour, or up to 5 hours. Pre­heat the grill to the high­est set­ting and line a large bak­ing tin with foil.

In a large pan, melt the co­conut oil on medium heat; add the re­main­ing paste and cook, stir­ring oc­ca­sion­ally, for 20 min­utes or un­til all of the mois­ture evap­o­rates. In­crease the heat slightly and cook for 3–5 min­utes un­til the paste is thick and dark. Add the co­conut milk and sim­mer for 25–30 min­utes un­til the sauce is thick.

Mean­while, put the mar­i­nated chicken, skin side up, in the lined bak­ing tin and grill for 15 min­utes, un­til well coloured and charred, then turn the chicken over and grill for an­other 5 min­utes to make sure it is cooked through.

Stir the chicken and any juices into the curry pan, bring to a sim­mer, cover and cook for 5 min­utes un­til the flavours have com­bined.

Taste and ad­just the sea­son­ing if nec­es­sary. Add the boiled eggs and the le­mon juice to taste. Sprin­kle with the chopped co­rian­der and serve with rice, cha­p­atis or flat­breads.

 ?? IM­AGES: JENNY ZARINS ?? HRH The Duchess of Sus­sex and fel­low cooks in the vol­un­teer kitchen
IM­AGES: JENNY ZARINS HRH The Duchess of Sus­sex and fel­low cooks in the vol­un­teer kitchen
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