FASHION NEWS
I was born and raised in Chicago, where I spent the majority of my 20s working in industrial and interior design. This taught me the importance of form and function. It was only when I moved to Europe that I was introduced to the significance of history and culture. My goal was to do something which allowed me to unite these elements, and so Eszaki was born. I draw a lot of inspiration from architecture and the idea of talismanic objects. I would like to think if Rick Owens and Maison Margiela were to have a lovechild, Eszaki would be it.
I shy away from pointless pieces with anything I put on my body. The wearers of my jewellery are the same. They are fashion conscious with an independent style, minimal, and they understand quality. What unites the Eszaki wearers is that he/she wants to wear pieces that are considered, unique and carry meaning.
I relate with the meaning of the talisman, but do so in a modern way. Most talismans are in the form of objects and translate meaning to the wearer. I use objects as well but am mostly known for transferring meaning through the use of numbers. All my pieces are engraved with personalised numbers, either geographical co-ordinates or dates. When ordering a piece, wearers get to choose their co-ordinates/dates. So my pieces are very much tailored to the wearer or store.
This new collection was all about chains; creating an aesthetic of rectangular hard edges put together to create movement. I introduced a line of mechanical clips in this collection. These clips were [designed] to be versatile. They can be used for bracelets as well as chokers, essentially they’re two products in one. A lot of my wearers are travellers, so I find it best to accommodate my wearers, add to their collection or switch out pieces from collections to make their look more versatile. This collection also mixes metals: silver clips with gold chains, and vice versa.
My inspiration this season is simply chains galore. Detention officers. Containment. Repetition and movement.
I have many favourites in this collection but one that holds great significance is the signet ring. The signet was created to have a vintage feel mixed with straight lines and a chunky facade to add a modern effect. A modern vintage piece at its finest. It was designed for a store in Tokyo, and it ended up being a dead-end. Months later a huge door opened with this signet ring. Wearing my signet reminds me to keep fighting, that I am a true example of when ‘one door closes a another (bigger) door opens’.
Each collection is created from déjà vu, dreams, or life events. I always make sure pen and paper are near my bed, the visions come when they want and it is usually at 3am. The concept is crucial and usually what I start with. After the concept is put on paper I design the function and placement. This is one step I never skip when designing a piece. Function first.
2019 is the year that my ‘Die Leeu’ collection will be released. There is a quote from Mark Twain I always think of when I speak of this collection: “The two most important days in your life are the day you are born and the day you find out why." This collection is my answer to the why, it represents, pulls together and defines the designer I was meant to be. SA is where the ‘Die Leeu’ concept was inspired, sketched and designed. The designs were created from the power and respect I felt and experienced in SA. It will forever be one of my favorite places in the world.