CHRISTMAS IN A CULTURE CAPITAL
James Litston has all you need to know to savour a magical, wintery Budapest
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The festive season kicks off early in Budapest. Its Christmas market (which opened on November 9) is the first in Europe to celebrate winter with colourful stalls, traditional dancing and cups of steaming forralt bor
(mulled wine). It adds an attractive veneer to one of Europe’s great cultural capitals.
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The five-star Corinthia Hotel Budapest in the heart of bustling ’Pest has the class that one expects from a grand-dame hotel. Doubles from R3 400. With just 10 rooms, Pest-Buda is a true boutique hotel with bags of character in the historic centre. Doubles from R1 700.
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Starting at the Chain Bridge, hike uphill (or ride the funicular) to the Castle District. Wander cobbled streets, admire views across the Danube and tick off landmarks such as Buda Castle, which was once home to Hungarian royalty.
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Heroes’ Square was created in 1896 to commemorate Hungary’s millennium. Its monuments and museums provide a memorable backdrop to City Park, whose lake becomes an ice rink in winter (entry R90pp, plus R40pp for an hour’s skate hire).
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A soak in mineral waters is a local tradition. The city has 118 geothermal springs and many public baths. The grand façades and pools of Széchenyi (szechenyispabaths.com) are the perfect place to warm up after wintry sightseeing. R280pp.
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Follow pedestrianised Váci Street, the city’s major shopping thoroughfare, to Vorosmarty Square for stores spanning high street to highend. Until January 1, the square hosts Budapest Christmas Fair, with more than 100 stalls.
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Szimpla Kert (szimpla.eu) is the city’s original “ruin bar”: a bohemian, pop-up pub in a oncederelict factory. The salvaged furnishings and fairy lights spawned many imitators, but its 400-strong list of cocktails (from R90), wines and craft beers draws a loyal following.
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Work up an appetite at the Downtown Market (belvarospiac.hu/en), then bag a table at Stand 25 (stand25.hu), an informal bistro serving local dishes such as goulash. R260pp for lunch (three courses) or R440pp for dinner (four courses), without wine.
OFF THE MAP
Many of the showiest landmarks lie along the river. See them on a 70-minute cruise (from R190pp, legenda.hu/en/duna-bella) from Vigado Square.
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