FALLING FOR FLORENCE: THE CITY OF LILIES
From shopping in old palazzos to sipping cocktails on rooftops, Nicky Swallow dishes on how to make the most of your time in the birthplace of the Renaissance
STAY HERE
Glowing from a recent revamp, the Savoy has a supercentral location and stylish yet homely rooms (from £353, about R6,300, without breakfast).
For something more affordable, head south of the river to lovely Piazza Santo Spirito, where Palazzo Guadagni offers whispers of A Room with a View and a glorious wraparound loggia. Doubles from £70 (R1,250), including breakfast.
WALK HERE
Start on the steps of Florence’s vast Duomo before heading south down pedestrianised Via dei Calzaiuoli, window shopping en route. Historic Piazza della Signoria is where Girolamo Savonarola famously lit his Bonfire of the Vanities in 1497. From here, wander over the Ponte Vecchio before bearing right to explore the boho-chic neighbourhood of Santo Spirito.
TRY THIS
To get a feel for the layout of the city, climb the 414 narrow steps of the Duomo’s bell tower. Views from the top stretch for miles (ilgrandemuseodel duomo.it).
SEE THIS
The Bargello Museum (bargellomusei.beniculturali.it) was once a prison but today is home to a magnificent collection of sculptures by the likes of Michelangelo, Benvenuto Cellini, Giambologna and Donatello.
SHOP HERE
Occupying the vaulted ex-stables of a Renaissance palazzo near Santa Croce, Maison de Parfum Aquaflor
(acquaflorfirenze.com) sells divine soaps, skin creams, room fragrances, eau de colognes and perfumes, all made on the premises.
DRINK HERE
Housed in the revamped 13th-century Palazzo Concini, Locale (localefirenze.it) is one of Florence’s hottest — and classiest — cocktail spots and a favourite with the Florence smart set. Craft cocktails (around à20 or R315 with nibbles) include a knockout negroni.
EAT HERE
Regina Bistecca (reginabistecca.com) showcases
Florence’s signature dish, the bistecca alla Fiorentina ,a steak served very rare and best accompanied by white cannellini beans and rosemary-spiked roast potatoes. Expect to pay à40 (R630) per head plus wine.
OFF THE MAP
Founded by the Etruscans, the hilltop village of Fiesole lies some 5km north of the centre (bus no 7 from the train station). It is a pleasant, cool escape from the crowds with a Roman amphitheatre and archaeological museum (combined ticket à12,
museidifiesole.it), some quaint shops, a pretty piazza with cafés for coffee or lunch, and fabulous views.