Sunday Times

TWO WEEKS IN THE WILD WEST OF OZ

The state of Western Australia occupies a third of the country and includes beaches, vineyards and dusty Outback towns. Fleur Bainger charts a stunning tour, from Perth to Ningaloo

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Australia’s Wild West has undeniable allure — I know, because its charms snared me: I moved here for six weeks and never left. That was 12 years ago. Perth, the capital, is one of the most isolated in the world, its coastline long, untouched and bloated with marine life, and its people upbeat and outdoorsy — perhaps buoyed by the 3,000 hours of sunshine Perth soaks up a year: more than any other Australian capital. There’s also the intrigue of Australia’s “other side”, one that’s off the beaten tourist path and more in tune with the rugged wilderness of the Outback. Oh, and then there’s those impossibly cute, furry marsupials called quokkas that have been taking over the internet. And the massive, gentle whale sharks that are quite relaxed about your joining them for a swim. What visitors often don’t know is that behind the Caribbean-like beaches are forests that stretch 60m towards the sky, characterf­ul portside towns with winding streets and elegant wineries responsibl­e for 20% of the country’s premium output.

Western Australia isn’t just beaches, you see. It covers one-third of the country and stretches from the cooler, verdant south to the ochre, sun-baked north. This first-time trip takes in the best and most accessible parts of a dream trip.

The quickest way from SA to Perth is on SAA (flysaa.com). The eastbound flight on just over nine hours while prevailing winds add two hours to the westbound flight. A test booking for travel in early April turned up a return Saver fare of R13,707.

 ?? Picture: 123rf.com/sculder190­9 ?? KEY TO THE CITY Elizabeth Quay is the new waterfront area in the state’s capital, Perth, Australia.
Picture: 123rf.com/sculder190­9 KEY TO THE CITY Elizabeth Quay is the new waterfront area in the state’s capital, Perth, Australia.
 ??  ?? STEP BACK IN TIME Rottnest Island has 63 bays, powdery beaches, and car-free roads. Picture: © Tourism Western Australia & Rottnest Island Authority
STEP BACK IN TIME Rottnest Island has 63 bays, powdery beaches, and car-free roads. Picture: © Tourism Western Australia & Rottnest Island Authority

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