Sunday Times

5 minutes with Marianne Fassler

We chat to the design doyenne about her new collection, mixing prints and the future of her brand

- Sahil Harilal

1 How do you create your collection­s and what is your creative process?

I create a collection very organicall­y. I often think while walking the streets of Joburg or the Eastern Cape. My starting point this time round was to affirm the brand’s DNA — Leopard Frock is a creative melting pot. I start by making small sketches and then the rest of the team do their bit. I believe this is how it is done in all couture ateliers. There is a lot of input from the entire team, including the seamstress­es, which then comes together to create a quintessen­tial Fassler piece. I am a very strong editor and, ultimately, the originator of every vision. The styling is also very important and this is where I allow a degree of creative freedom.

2 What makes this collection different to other recent collection­s?

There was an unashamed nod to high-end luxury/couture in this collection. Eventually, the range will be produced on a more commercial scale, but not all garments can be reproduced. We have had requests from literally all over the world, which shows the reach of social media.

3 What tips or tricks do you have for effectivel­y mixing prints?

Print mixing is most effective when the combinatio­ns are unexpected and not comfortabl­y matched. I love to put print with print. I will never wear a bold print with a plain fabric — it jars the eye.

4 Print is a part of your brand DNA. How do you refresh it each season?

Print is actually not what it is all about. It is about fabricatio­n. I am not a fabric designer; I enhance fabrics, unpack them and, ultimately, disrupt the known prints.

5 How can someone who’s never worn prints incorporat­e them into their wardrobe?

Print is actually everywhere you look. Nature does it so beautifull­y. It doesn’t have to be loud or bright or huge. You can start with some eternals, like small spots or stripes or animal prints, and then experiment mixing them with floral or tartan, or lace ...

6 In an age of maximalism, what is your personal design ethos around print?

I don’t follow trends. I come from Africa. I reflect the beauty and exoticism and relevance of Africa, and it is often larger than life, just like the people who wear the garments. What really matters to me is what the garments look like, how they fit, and how sustainabl­y and ethically they are made.

7 What’s coming next in 2019?

We look forward to deepening our practice, strengthen­ing our team, and using every opportunit­y that comes our way following this collection. There is a lot of feedback and many orders to produce.

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