THESSALONIKI
A GUIDE TO GREECE’S SECOND CITY Long overshadowed by Athens, this port city in the north has flair, history and fun, says Chris Leadbeater
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Athens so dominates our perceptions of urban life in Greece that the country’s second city is very much underappreciated.
Yet, Thessaloniki is a destination awash with food, culture and history. The capital of Central Macedonia is part swarthy port on the edge of the Aegean, part gateway to the beaches of Halkidiki (visit-halkidiki.gr), part hive of southern European life where people spill from shops, bars and eateries.
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A striking boutique hotel slotted into a restored ’20s townhouse, The Modernist (themodernist.gr) lives up to its name in its stylish black-and-white decor, compact but comfy rooms, and splendid roof terrace where breakfast is served. Doubles from £65 (R1,195). Older and wiser, but just as well located, the Electra Palace (electrahotels.gr) has been a noble fixture on the waterfront since 1972. Double rooms for £104 (R2,000).
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Stroll along the harbourside drag of Nikis Avenue and you cannot miss the White Tower (lpth.gr; à4/R64), the former Ottoman prison which, despite being built in an era of occupation (in 1430), has become one of the symbols of the city.
The statue 400m to the southeast is of a rather more Greek icon — empire-builder Alexander the Great (of Ancient Macedonia), rearing on horseback. Nearby, a gentle amble up the pedestrianised slant of Dimitriou Gounari Street will take you back to Ancient Rome. The impressive ruins of the Palace of Galerius provide a greater tribute than this fourth-century emperor probably deserves — while the grandeur of the triumphal arch in his name, further up the hill, belies the fact that he reigned for just six years. However, no such caveats afflict the Rotunda (odysseus.culture.gr; à2/R32), a temple that became a church — and then a mosque — in later life. It was added to the Unesco World Heritage list in 1988.
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Aristotelous Street — a (largely) car-free promenade — is the city’s shopping heartland. Stereodisc (facebook.com/stereodisc) is a music emporium stacked with vinyl and CDs, while Gofas (gofas.gr) is a jewellers of sparkling allure. Two blocks to the east, Agias Sofias revels in fashion via outlets such as Julia & More (juliabergovich.com).
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For more history, the Archaeological Museum (amth.gr; à8/R128) has exhibits dating to the fourth century BC — including Macedonian armour in fine condition. The Museum of Photography (thmphoto.gr; à2/R32) is rather more modern in emphasis, staging rotating exhibitions of camera-caught magic in a renovated warehouse.
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Shop for cheese, olive oil and wine in the Modiano Market and visit its fish-focused colleague, the Kapani Market (kapani.gr). The latter is intriguing for the informal cafés that fringe it — such as the busy Stou Mitsou.
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Once a work-zone of warehouses by the port, the Ladadika district has become the nightlife hub in the past 20 years. On The Edge (facebook.com/ontheedgecafebar) sums up its ethos, revelling in absinthe cocktails, pictured below.
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Picanha,picturedbottom left, (facebook.com/picanhameatandmore) is one of Ladadika’s food highlights, spearing huge chunks of steak (dishes from à11) amid a general devotion to all things Brazilian. If you’d prefer something local, Ergon Agora (ergonfoods.com) is a joy, serving a pork chop with pancetta for à12/R192 and spaghetti with feta and pesto for à8.20.
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Pella — the capital of Ancient Macedonia, and the birthplace of Alexander the Great — sits 48km northwest of Thessaloniki. It peers at the man and his legacy in its excellent Archaeological Museum (pella-museum.gr; à8/R64) and adjacent ruins. Viator (viator.com) sells a tour (ref: 2876P53; £44pp/R816) that also visits the royal tombs in Vergina (including the mausoleum of Alexander’s father Philip II; one of the 20th century’s great discoveries).