KNYSNA: A GARDEN REGROWN
This pretty Western Cape town lends itself to outdoor exploring, with lagoon cruises, forest hikes and visits to the rejuvenated nature reserve. By Sanet Oberholzer
Bobbing up and down on a small motorised boat making its way across the Knysna lagoon, I glance over at one of the most dangerous shipping passages in the world. The headlands, or Knysna Heads as they are affectionately called, stand guard where the lagoon joins the sea and the peaceful waters spill into the wild, unpredictable roar of the Indian Ocean. Local legend has it that the Featherbed Nature Reserve — my destination on this fine winter afternoon — derived its name from sailors who, having obtained safe passage through the perilous Knysna Heads, cast anchor into the tranquil bay waters and, after months of being at sea, enjoyed sleeping on what felt like “grandma’s feather bed”.
Perhaps more dangerous than the shifting sand banks between the Knysna Heads was a series of fires that ripped through parts of the Garden Route in 2017.
As you drive through Knysna and its surrounds, abandoned, scorched structures that were once houses haunt what is an otherwise pristine holiday destination. Other houses have been rebuilt, signs of devastation all but gone.
The Featherbed Nature Reserve is one such story of success. When the fires ripped through the reserve, fuelled by strong winds, 98% of the vegetation was lost. The fire was so severe that the plants were burned down to their roots.
WHERE FYNBOS FLOURISHES
Following arduous rebuilding, Featherbed officially opened again in December last year. Exactly two years after the disaster, a rehabilitation project involving a horticulturist and a team of staff complemented by regular visits from geologists, scientists and botanists, concluded in June this year.
The team worked tirelessly to replant and rehabilitate the flora and fauna but also to remove invasive plants species that had thrived after being introduced to the area in the 1960s. The result is 85% indigenous vegetation of flourishing rare Knysna Sand fynbos and coastal forest that is once again home to insects, small animals and birds like the elusive Knysna Loerie.
Four milkwood trees that were thought lost to the fire started sprouting again and now form a tropical canopy above the rebuilt Food Forest, one of four new venues at Featherbed, where you can enjoy a delectable buffet lunch of bread, meats, vegetables, salads and typical South African touches with a twist like lentil bobotie. Leave room for home-made ice cream and mini milktarts and make a point to try the strawberry daiquiri: it is possibly the best I’ve ever had.
In season, the popular Beach Bar, on the small strip of sand that extends directly from the lagoon, attracts tourists and locals in search of sea, sand and good vibes. Like the rest of Featherbed, it is only reachable by boat. Hence, responsible boating is encouraged and special arrangements can be made for someone to deliver you, and even your boat (if you’re lucky enough to live on one of Knysna’s channels and own a boat) home safely after a boozy afternoon.
If the weather isn’t playing along, visitors can enjoy a leisurely lunch or dinner in the Milkwood Restaurant that elegantly combines modern touches of brick, steel and glass with natural elements like delicate ferns and tables made from indigenous wood.
The new Tug Bar, opening soon, boasts glorious views over the lagoon and will be a welcome addition for the overflow from the Beach Bar on busy days. It houses the restored pilot house of an old tug boat.
PERFECT PILLOWS
Safely cocooned later on the gentle side of the Heads, I explored another interesting part of Knysna’s history.
Perched on the picturesque Thesen Island, the Turbine Boutique Hotel and Spa is reminiscent of its industrial past. The original building was used as a power station that supplied both Knysna and Plettenberg Bay with electricity. It closed in 2001 and was subsequently sold, allowing the dream of a luxurious five-star hotel to sprout.
Today the Turbine is as quirky and playful as it is modern. Remodelled into a boutique hotel, it pays homage to its past. Old turbines, steel pillars and thick pipes have been incorporated into the unusual décor. Bare brick and white walls are offset against vivid colours that are splashed throughout, alongside spectacular works of art.
The funky knobs and buttons in the rooms are meant to be pressed and may even switch on a light or two. Photographers and design enthusiasts will likely find themselves enthralled at every turn and may well need an afternoon to explore the space.
A combination of brilliant sleep in a pillowy bed, sips of coffee overlooking the picture-perfect channels from my room’s balcony and being fed to my heart’s content in either the stylish Island Café Restaurant or classic Gastro Pub soon had me blissfully relaxed. If you need encouragement, melt away into a full-body massage or treatment of your choice at the Turbine’s spa.
INTO THE FOREST
As winter begrudgingly started releasing its icy claws, the outdoor activities that may have had me reeling two months ago suddenly became appealing. Knysna is a unique town. Nestled in the heart of the Garden Route, it is clean and pretty and feels as though it is cut off from the rest of the world. It lends itself to outdoor living and exploring.
If retail therapy is not your cup of tea, grab a bicycle from the Turbine Water Club and explore. Knysna is small enough and will not only reward you with scenic views but also with a sense of accomplishment you don’t often find living in the city.
One of my earliest memories of Knysna is from my mother’s love for Dalene Matthee’s books, so I could not leave without a visit to the Knysna Forest. The 3km Circles in the Forest walk evoked passages from Fiela se
Kind and it soon became clear why Matthee came here for inspiration: the world is different under the canopies of the trees and undulations of the trees’ roots on the forest floor. It offers space to clear your head, take a breath and hear all the strange sounds that are as intriguing as they are a little scary when you’re doing the walk alone.
Where once a trumpeting herd of elephant roamed the Knysna forest, it is now believed that only one female elephant, Oupoot (named after the elephants in Matthee’s novel Kringe
in die Bos), is left to roam amongst the trees. The idea of spotting her is magical but when you’re in the thick of it you hope that you truly are alone.
Oberholzer was a guest of the Turbine Boutique Hotel and Spa