ON YOUR MARKS, GET SET, TOKYO!
Feel the buzz as the Japanese capital rises to its moment of glory, says Danielle Demetriou
Go now
Tokyo is heating up (and not just in terms of its soaring summer temperatures). The Japanese capital is counting down to its moment to shine in the international spotlight — with the Rugby World Cup kicking off this month and the 2020 Summer Olympics only a year away. There’s a palpable excitement in the air, it’s hard to keep up with the rush of new hotels opening, and longterm infrastructural projects — designed to make Tokyo not only more attractive, but even cleaner and safer than it already is — are drawing to a close.
Stay here
Looking for contemporary Japanese design on a budget? OMO5 Tokyo Otsuka is housed in a former office building. Its 125 rooms are comfortable and contemporary, with lightwood frames inspired by Japanese-style scaffolding. Doubles from 7,000 yen (R1,000). See https://omo-hotels.com.
The Andaz Tokyo in Toranomon Hills balances an intimate ambience with a warm urban decor (think dark woods, red leather and abstract sculpture — plus breathtaking views). Doubles from 62,300 yen (R9,000). See hyatt.com.
Walk here
Start exploring Tokyo’s more peaceful side with a visit to Meiji Jingu, a historic shrine hidden in Yoyogi Park. It’s just behind the bustling chaos of Harajuku Station (take the Omotesando exit). Wander along the long, forest-lined walkway that leads to the elegant shrine gates, before washing hands, clapping and tossing a coin into the central shrine. Next, plunge back into the Harajuku chaos with a stroll along colourful street Takeshita Dori — a bustling showcase of young street fashion. Continue along nearby Omotesando, an elegant zelkova tree-lined boulevard with high-end boutiques and a string of iconic architect-designed fashion flagships. At the far end, pop into the serene Nezu Museum to explore its latest exhibition, curated from an impressive collection of Japanese works (from swords to teacups) — finishing up with a stroll around its exquisite gardens.
See this
Ueno Park, in east Tokyo, is a great one-stop shop (japan-guide.com/e/
e3019.html). It’s home to a string of museums and art galleries, as well as lotus ponds, pagodas, more than 1,000 cherry trees and a popular zoo with giant pandas. The Tokyo National Museum is particularly worth visiting, with its heaving collections ranging from calligraphy to Buddhist sculptures (www.tnm.jp).
Try this
Learn how to make soba noodles from scratch at the friendly Tsukiji Soba Academy run by the charismatic chef Akila Inouye (soba.specialist.co.jp).
Shop here
Stock up on green tea in the sleek
Marunouchi outlet of the Kyoto tea company Ippodo. Sample an array of teas (ippodotea.co.jp/en) before taking your pick in the shop. There is also the Kaboku Tearoom, where visitors can savour perfectly prepared tea with Japanese sweets. Or for those keen to know their matchas and senchas from their banchas, sign up for an on-site tea class.
Drink here
A trip to Tokyo is incomplete without at least one sunset cocktail in a skyscraper — and a good place to do this is within the timelessly elegant confines of the New York Bar in the Park Hyatt Tokyo, aka that hotel from Lost in Translation. Against a backdrop of live music, nab a window seat, order a cocktail (maybe a sakura liqueur LIT — named after the film) and savour the stunning 52nd-floor views as the skies darken and the city slowly transforms into a nocturnal sea of lights. Reservations recommended.
Eat here
Sushi lovers would do well to make a special pilgrimage to Ginza Kyubey, a family-run restaurant home to a four-storey warren of tatami mat rooms and sushi counters that serves up high-quality sushi (kyubey.jp/en); Steven Spielberg is apparently a regular. Perhaps best of all? The friendly, elderly owner, Imada-san, who makes a point of speaking to every guest. For the Sushi Kaiseki course (strongly recommended), expect to pay from around 15,000 yen (R2,100) per person.
Off the map
Just one hour by train outside Tokyo is Kamakura — a pretty coastal town packed with old temples, frequented by surfers and surrounded by green mountains. Hire a bicycle next to the station and explore the winding lanes, organic food restaurants, beaches and sights. Don’t miss the Great Buddha of Kamakura, an 11m bronze statue sitting in the grounds of Kotokuin Temple (kotoku-in.jp/en; admission ¥200/R28).
© Telegraph Media Group Limited [2019]