WHEN THE BOTTLE TAKES A BEATING
Sales of boxed wine in SA have overtaken those of bottled. Wine expert Fiona McDonald shares the lowdown on three bag-in-box wines
Woolworths
Kleine Zalze Chenin Blanc
Stellenbosch producer Kleine Zalze is the current top-performing winery in the 2021 Platter Guide to South African wines, a feat it achieved by having the most five-star wines in the book: seven overall. If there’s one thing it is known for, it’s chenin blanc, and it was supportive of Woolworths’ attempt to premiumise boxed wine. Kleine Zalze’s marketing head Carina Gous said this is the same wine as the bottled version – and what’s not to love about the eminently drinkable tropical fruittoned wine? It is chock-full of stone fruit, ripe nectarine and apricot with a creamy breadth and refreshing acidity to balance. Look out for the Diemersdal Sauvignon Blanc, Beyerskloof Pinotage and Haute Cabriere Tranquille in the same twolitre range.
R124,99 (2l) Two Oceans Sauvignon Blanc
South Africans love sauvignon blanc. If there’s one wine that screams “Summer’s here!” it’s this perky, zesty, fresh and lively wine. Harvest is currently in full swing in the Western Cape and traditionally sauvignon blanc are some of the first grapes to be plucked off the vines to preserve that vibrant, lip-smacking acidity. Two Oceans is one of mega-producer Distell’s global brands, represented in something like 80 countries. Sauvignon blanc is known for its tanginess and succulence – but this one marries that refreshment with a riper, tropical note. Think granadilla, a touch of tangy pineapple and then the more typical gooseberry and lemon flavour, all with trademark acidity. R129 (3l)
Robertson Merlot
The old association with boxed wine was of generic “dry white” or “dry red”. Consumers never knew what specific grapes went into the making of it. Robertson winery changed that when it introduced variety-specific offerings – merlot, shiraz, cabernet sauvignon, sauvignon blanc and others. In the everyday popularity stakes, merlot is the red counterpart of sauvignon blanc. Everybody LOVES merlot! This example is a more than halfway decent drop – even receiving some oaking. (So, because of the volumes required to keep up with demand, it’s not individual barrels but rather oak staves that line the large stainless-steel tanks.) And the oak is well integrated, providing a subtle backbone to the generously ripe plum fruit. Twenty percent of the wine is unoaked, which means there’s a bright freshness and fruit purity too. It’s soft and rounded with a light cocoa/coffee note from the oak. Overall, just delicious. R169.99, (3l)
McDonald is the former editor of WINE magazine, a Platter Guide taster and chairs the South African panel of the Decanter World Wine Awards in London.