A gem of a job where no stone is left unturned
Kate Shearer is a gemologist, jewellery designer and founder of Bespoke by Kate
What does a gemologist do, and how do you qualify as one?
A Gemological Institute of America (GIA) gemologist is an expert in diamond grading and gemstone identification. They are wellrecognised in the jewellery industry. In fact, you are not taken seriously unless you have a GIA qualification.
You can do the course via correspondence, which takes about two years, or on campus, which takes six months. One needs to do a certain number of lab hours, view at least 2,500 stones and pass a five-hour, 20stone practical exam with 100% to graduate.
It’s a strenuous course and you need to dedicate all your time to your studies.
What do you enjoy about designing jewellery?
I enjoy the creative side. Creating a piece to suit an individual’s style and personality and pocket is vital. Sourcing the perfect gemstone or diamond is of utmost importance as it makes up about 70% of the value of a finished piece.
How did the experience of working for Cartier on Fifth Avenue affect the kind of jewellery you design and make?
I have always loved high-end jewellery, and the Cartier Mansion on Fifth Avenue, New York, has the most exquisite pieces. All the gemstones used are naturally coloured, not to mention valuable.
Cartier is one of the most prestigious and admired luxury jewellery brands in the world and prides itself on craftsmanship and invention.
I enjoy designing classic diamond and gemstone jewellery with a twist, a quality piece that can be enjoyed by the wearer and worn every day.
What are the latest trends in jewellery?
Pearls are definitely back in, as are layered chunky yellow gold and pearl necklaces, chokers, large clasps, charms, zodiac signs, birthstones, lots of colour, two-stone rings using gemstones and diamonds in different shapes, DIY beads and personalised jewellery, bracelets, curated ears with multiple earrings, customised jewellery and renewing old pieces into new.
What is your favourite piece of jewellery?
My favourite piece is a triple-excellent cut, fancy yellow round brilliant diamond my dad gave me, which used to be worn by my mum. Set in 18k yellow gold to enhance its beautiful colour, the solitaire setting allows light to hit the stone from all angles, creating the most beautiful brilliance, scintillation and fire.
What makes you good at your job?
My qualifications have enabled me to understand the intrinsic value of diamonds and gemstones. They allow me to educate private clients, giving them the correct information they need to make an informed decision when purchasing a stone.
This, coupled with a good eye for style and design, has powered the success of Bespoke by Kate.
What advice do you have for aspirant gemologists and designers?
Do what you love, work hard, get your qualifications and go for it. Don’t imitate, create. The world is your oyster and full of opportunity.