SOME LIKE IT HOT
Jane Griffiths talks to Sean Freeman from Livingseeds, which offers SA’s largest selection of chilli seeds. Here they share tips and advice on how to grow the best chillies
Along with chocolate, tomatoes and potatoes, chillies come from the Americas, where they’ve been part of the diet for more than 7,000 years. Chillies can be addictive, giving an endorphin rush similar to that which a runner craves. And you can get hooked on growing them. “Chilli growing has increased in leaps and bounds over the past few years,” says Sean Freeman from Livingseeds, which offers the largest selection of chilli seeds in SA.
GROWING
All peppers prefer well-drained, fertile soil and a warm climate. Surprisingly, they don’t require full sun. “Chillies do well in light shade,” says Freeman. “They don’t like cold and won’t survive a hard frost. Growing them in pots is a good choice for frost areas, as they can be brought indoors in winter.”
Start under cover in seed modules.
After about six weeks they are ready to transplant. To encourage strong roots, bury seedlings so their leaves are just above the ground.
FEEDING, WATERING AND PROTECTING
“At transplant, feed with Talborne Organics Vita Grow (2:3:2), which helps them to establish themselves and build a good root structure,” Freeman advises. When the first flower buds form, add Vita Fruit and Flower (3:1:5) to help with flower and fruit production. The plants prefer humid conditions when flowering and setting fruit. If it is very dry, mist water overhead. Protect seedlings from cutworms as they are partial to young chilli plants.
HARVESTING AND EATING
Fruiting begins about 15 to 17 weeks after transplanting. All peppers change colour as they mature, from green, yellow and purple, to red, yellow, orange or brown. Most increase their heat levels the longer they remain on the plant. The more you harvest, the more they bear. Nip small ones off with finger and thumb and use scissors for cutting off larger ones.
Chillies are used fresh in stir-fries, curries, stews and soups. Add them to sauces, chutneys, jellies and jams. Use dry pods whole or ground into powder for a spice mix or rub.
SAVING THE SEEDS
“Saving chilli seeds is straightforward as long as you isolate the flowers and they naturally self-pollinated. Harvest once the pod is fully coloured,” says Freeman. He recommends cutting pods open and scraping seeds onto a plate to dry out. “Once dry, pack into an airtight container and label with variety and date,” he says. The seed will be viable for about five years. Wear gloves when processing seeds from hot varieties.
REALLY HOT STUFF!
For some people the challenge is to grow (and eat) the hottest chillies they can. “The hottest commercially available chilli is the Carolina Reaper,” says Freeman. This fiery beast is 22 times hotter than a Habanero (which already has a blazing kick) and 300 times hotter than a Jalapeño. “We also supply seeds for many other extreme chillies, like 7 Pots, Trinidad Morouga Scorpions and Douglahs.” The hotter the variety, the more of a challenge they are to grow. “The reasons are not clearly understood. However, there is a definite increase in germination difficulty as the heat levels rise,” he adds.
TIPS FOR GERMINATING SUPERHOT CHILLIES:
Freeman advises using a germination mat. These increase bottom heat, which assists germination. Another option is to use an old electric blanket set on its lowest setting. Also invest in good-quality germination mix. Freeman recommends a 1/3 each mix of vermiculite, coco peat and vermicompost. This fine, nutrient-rich mix holds moisture well, but doesn’t become waterlogged. Finally, patience. Just when you are about to give up, your seed will germinate. Some of the super-hot chillies can take up to 30 days.