Sunday Times

SUBTLE SHADE

Four beauty trends to steal from SA Fashion Week.

- By Nokubonga Thusi

The SA Fashion Week AW23 collection­s were a celebratio­n of statement silhouette­s and garments bursting with colour, as seen on the runways of Munkus, The Bam Collective and Michael Ludwig Studio. But while we would have expected beauty looks to follow suit, the makeup choices were, in fact, subdued.

Quite a departure from the scenesteal­ing Euphoria-style glittery eyes and kaleidosco­pic use of colour that we’ve been seeing post-pandemic, this season’s beauty trends featured a simplified take on colour with only one main focal point and an emphasis on healthy-looking, pared-back skin.

ORANGE CRUSH

Seen at: Helon Melon, Michael Ludwig Studio, Essie Apparel

While the fashion world is crushing on shades of Valentino Pink and Bottega Veneta Green, it seems that juicy shades of orange rule in the beauty world. From neon tangerines to soft corals, splashes of orange could be found on eyelids, cheeks and lips. At Helon Melon, vibrant orange undertoned red lips (of the MAC Lady Danger variety) perfectly complement­ed cherry-tinted sunglasses. At the Michael Ludwig Studio show, orange was used as a graphic wash of neon tangerine tucked snuggly into the eye crease, set against clean skin and lips. And at the Essie Apparel show, it was all about diffused monochroma­tic washes of tangerine on the eyes, cheeks and lips that mimicked the look of softly sunflushed skin.

TICKLED PINK Seen at: The Bam Collective

The global obsession with pink is still on — and even more so now thanks to Valentino Pink, so we were not surprised to see a pink beauty moment at the Bam Collective show. As the perfect pairing to the vibrantly playful collection, models sported bright, candy pink shades worked into a halo of colour along the heights of the cheek bones, temples and eyelids. The look was given dimension with the use of layering, tonalities and finishes. The pink on the eyelids was packed on for a more saturated finish, while along the cheeks and temples it was blended into a diffused veil of colour and layered with dewy shine.

BLACKENED BERRY LIPS Seen at: DROMe, Ntando XV

Lips took a walk on the dark side at the DROMe and Ntando XV shows as models sported blackened berry lips in varying finishes and intensitie­s.

At Ntando XV, model’s lips were generously coated as the main focal point, with a deep blackberry shade in a classic matte finish. At the DROMe (Fashion Bridges Ponti Della Moda) show, the makeup showcased a minimalist­ic and gender-fluid approach to anarchy and punk.

Both male and female models were sent out with lips drenched with gloss in a sheer, chocolate cherry shade that suited every skin tone, paired with lit-from-within skin and clear glossed eyelids. The absence of blush, mascara and colour on the lids gave a stark look to skin that was brought to life with glints from the lightrefle­cting gloss finishes.

MICRO-TREND

NOSTALGIC HEADSCARVE­S

Seen at: Helon Melon

Headscarve­s are the summer accessory we didn’t know we needed. But as the first model walked out at the Helon Melon show, headscarve­s that channel a 40s-50s aesthetic became a serious want. Helon Melon pulled us into a retro fantasy with models wearing headscarve­s wrapped around the head and neck reminiscen­t of movie stars riding in vintage convertibl­es with their scarves fluttering in the wind. When it comes to sporting this trend, go for bold, printed colourways and complete with a bold lip and a pair of statement sunnies.

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 ?? Pictures: LR PHOTOGRAPH­Y/SAFW ?? From neon tangerines to soft corals, juicy shades of orange ruled the runway.
Pictures: LR PHOTOGRAPH­Y/SAFW From neon tangerines to soft corals, juicy shades of orange ruled the runway.

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