BEAUTY MIRACLE IN A SYRINGE?

HArmonyCa promises an instant facelift that can last two years. Sanet Oberholzer asks beauty practitioners if it works — and if it’s safe

Those in search of the ever-elusive fountain of youth will come across many promises that a product really works. These promises are often attached to hefty price tags. One of these is the HArmonyCa dermal filler treatment, a nonsurgical, hybrid filler that promises a facelift with immediate results that can last up to 18 months or more. The catch? It can cost around R12,000. Because it’s minimally invasive and doesn’t require surgery, the treatment may appeal to those seeking a more natural look. But is the end result worth the price?

We turned to the experts to find out what the treatment entails, how it works and whether the price is justified.

WHAT IS IT

Dermal fillers are substances classified as “biostimulators” that are injected into the skin to smooth out wrinkles, restore volume and enhance facial features. “The term ‘hybrid’ normally refers to the use of multiple types or fillers with varying properties and consistencies,” says Noluthando Mkhize, an education facilitator at the Beauty Therapy Institute.

“There may be some initial swelling or minor bruising immediately after the treatment, which can temporarily mask the results. However, once any swelling recedes within a few days and any bruising fades, the full effects of the treatment should be visible,” says Mkhize.

Dr Maureen Allem, the founder and medical director of Skin Renewal, says HArmonyCa combines the best qualities of a hyaluronic acid (HA) filler and a calcium hydroxyapatite (CaHA) filler, which is a collagen-stimulating filler. “The hyaluronic acid provides an immediate, natural lifting effect, while calcium hydroxyapatite spheres trigger continuous collagen stimulation.”

Sonja Schroder, the owner of Aesthetico in Joburg, who goes by “The Skin Whisperer” on Facebook, says she’s never been a fan of injectables and wants to avoid looking “fake”. She was hesitant to try HArmonyCa but noticed an improvement in her skin after having the treatment done.

“Unlike with other biostimulators, I felt instantly lifted,” says Schroder. “However, the optimal results will be present three to four months post-treatment as the calcium starts to stimulate fibroblasts, the cells which produce collagen. Your skin will still be looking fabulous with an additional glow and have an improved ‘snap-back’ effect with more elasticity and tightness, creating a natural-looking mini facelift.”

The fact that this treatment stimulates natural collagen production has made this a go-to injectable for her.

WHAT SETS IT APART?

There are no other hybrid dermal fillers on the market that combine HA with CaHA and Allem refers to it as “revolutionary”.

Dr Lev Naidoo, specialist dermatologist at The Dermatology Room in Hyde Park, explains that hyaluronic acid HA is a natural component in the skin that diminishes over the years as the skin’s capacity to produce its own supply slows down. But it’s the combination of CaHA with HA that sets this treatment apart from other injectables.

“[CaHA] integrates into the skin and forms a scaffold that promotes the production of collagen. This results in dermal stimulation and improvement of the skin’s architecture over months, conferring the capacity for rejuvenation that extends beyond the eventual degradation of the HA itself. It is this component that extends the functioning capacity of HArmonyCa beyond that of a conventional filler,” Naidoo says.

GETTING THE TREATMENT DONE

HArmonyCa is injected into the subdermal layer of your skin with a needle called a cannula after a local anaesthetic has been administered. The cannula reduces the risk of bruising and makes the treatment safer. HArmonyCa is only injected into the cheeks, chin and lateral parts of your face — not the areas around the eyes or mouth.

It’s been extensively studied, is approved by the Food & Drug Administration in the US and is considered to be safe if administered by a trained professional. All those consulted for this article emphasised the importance of booking a consultation with a professional for an assessment and to determine individual needs. Generally, the treatment is recommended if you have visible signs of ageing and would like to improve your skin structure.

“If firming, lifting and improvement of fine lines upon movement as well as quality of skin are what you would like assistance with, HArmonyCa may be the treatment for you,” Naidoo says.

Allem adds that it’s her ultimate “go-to” treatment for patients who have tried other products and treatments but have not been satisfied with the results.

The effects can last up to two years but this varies from person to person and depends on how the patient’s body breaks down HA and collagen, and on lifestyle factors. “If you smoke or drink alcohol, these habits can damage collagen and HA, which can shorten the lifespan of your HArmonyCa treatment,” Allem says.

The number of treatments required will depend on your own needs but generally one or two treatments are recommended over a six-month period, with a follow-up treatment every 12 to 18 months.

CONS

As with any injectable treatment, sideeffects include redness, swelling, bruising, tenderness and itching which usually subside within a week.

“In rare cases, more serious side-effects, such as allergic reactions, infection and delayed onset nodules can occur,” Allem says. Mkhize says serious complications such as vascular problems and filler migration or displacement are rare if the procedure is performed by a skilled and experienced professional.

The biggest con is possibly the price, which varies from clinic to clinic. Generally, the price starts from R6,750 for a single syringe, with another R5,750 if a second syringe is needed as part of the treatment.

THE VERDICT

It’s important to note that the people who provided comment on HArmonyCa for this article all offer the treatment at their practices. No neutral service providers without an interest in the procedure were willing to comment; those approached said they did not know enough about it.

While much of the evidence thus far is anecdotal, some scientific studies have been carried out. A recent article in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, based on a study conducted on 15 subjects, concluded that apart from the volumising and lifting properties of the treatment, the subjects’ skin elasticity increased. The authors attributed this to formation of new collagen fibres.

Skin Renewal’s Allem says 91% of its clients have reported “a marked improvement in their facial appearance after having two syringes injected over time”.

Mkhize says a number of factors can influence the overall result. “When performed by a skilled and experienced medical professional, the treatment can be highly effective in achieving desired results. However, it’s important to have realistic expectations and understand the limitations. The treatment cannot fundamentally change one’s underlying facial structure or reverse significant signs of ageing. Your doctor can provide a comprehensive assessment and discuss what can realistically be achieved.”

The ballpark figure of R12,000 may be a hefty price but if the results last 24 months, it may be the gift that keeps on giving.

There may be some initial swelling or minor bruising immediately after the treatment, which can temporarily mask the results — NOLUTHANDO MKHIZE, Beauty Therapy Institute