Artisinal treasures
An unusual dinner recently saluted our food heroes. Lee Currie meets the unsung stars who do it for love
IMAGINE a five-course gourmet dinner at the Oyster Box paired with top-class wines. Then imagine artisanal farmers less than 150km up the road on a freezing morning, feeding animals, checking trout runs, tending grapevines or checking the temperature of their cheeses.
Imagine their produce delivered super-fresh into the hands of executive chef Kevin Joseph.
This was the culinary marriage of our Midlands artisanal food farmers and Joseph’s expertise at the KZN Food Heroes dinner at the Oyster Box last month. It was a memorable evening for heroes and guests.
“The response has been phenomenal and we are already planning the next one,” said Oyster Box GM Wayne Coetzer.
He explained the inspiration behind the dinner: “I grew up on the most beautiful farm in the Kamberg and the Midlands has always been very special to me. There are a number of artisan farmers, farming for the love of it. This is pure food, produced and nurtured by real people where the main ingredient is not ‘messed with’ and where their animals enjoy a better quality of life.
“They are not making ‘squillions’ from what they’re doing – they simply enjoy making it, talking about it and watching other folk enjoying it.
“So we decided to expose them as food heroes, and showcase the unique produce on offer in KZN. We’ll be hosting three dinners a year where the public get to meet the farmers, talk to them, and enjoy their produce.”
I attended as guest of Oyster Box. The food was superb, each dish more innovative as the courses arrived paired with Abingdon’s Wine Estate’s excellent wines. There was even a complimentary jar of berry jam made by Andre Bezhuidenhout, owner of Pucketty Farm Stall in Underberg.
We shared our table with some of the heroes. Dean de Chazal of Dargle Ducks confided this was only his second time away from his farm in five years.
While it was clear they were enjoying a change in routine and scenery, the conversation meandered around potholes, rising prices of feed, stock theft, Telkom, power outages and jokes about rain dances. It made me realise how little we city dwellers really know about this hardy breed who bring pleasure through their food.
Said Franco Esposito of Esposito Natural Foods: “We have, for a long time, felt KZN was lagging behind the rest of the country in recognising good, ethically produced natural food. Functions such as the one held by the Oyster Box are helping to popularise what appears to have been a niche market.
“The more the public is made aware of what is available on their doorstep the smaller the carbon footprint,” said Sue Hofman of Wayfarers Trout.
By the end of the evening I had already made plans to follow in Coetzer’s footsteps and pay a visit to these food heroes. We (husband James and I) set off early last Sunday morning:
CHRISSIE’S COUNTRY CHEESES
A pair of convivial dogs greeted us on the farm and led us to Chrissie and Peter Briscoe (the farm has been in Peter’s family for several generations).
It was hard to believe that operating from what are essentially a couple of small rooms, Chrissie’s cheeses have won her numerous awards. She keeps her business micro as she is also a music teacher. She’s also an avid collector of cheese memorabilia.
Varieties: Cheddar, farmhouse, red Cheddar, green sage, nettle and herb, red sage, paprika, Brie style and more.
Where to buy: Shongweni Market or contact: 082 558 6049 or peterbriscoe@betternet.co.za
ABINGDON WINE ESTATE
Here we met up with Ian and Jane Smorthwaite. We had to forgo a wine tasting as we were had little time. Jane kindly squeezed us in to their restaurant for lunch even though it was packed and we enjoyed one her delicious platters.
Open: weekends and public holidays.
Contact: 083 463 8503 or www.abingdonestate.co.za
WAYFARERS TROUT
After a fairly teeth-rattling drive through Dargle’s pastoral hills and valleys, we came upon a magnificent house that stands in majestic isolation.
We were welcomed by Sue and Andre Hofman and their son Garyth (formerly city-life escapees from Joburg). Andre kindly let us taste their cold-smoked trout which was simply served with black pepper, lemon and some biscuits. It was sublime.
Afterwards we had a fascinating tour of the hatchery and trout runs.
“The waters are pristine and abundant which contributes to the excellence of our trout,” said Sue. “The trout runs are kept as close to a natural trout environment as can be constructed.”
Sue pointed out that while they love their lifestyle, it involves a lot of hard work. “Baby trout require an awful lot of care; they need to be fed seven times a day and kept meticulously clean to prevent any number of problems.”
Products: Deboned fillets and cold smoked trout prepared fresh to order.
Where to buy: Dargle Market at the Lions River Polo Club (First Sunday of the month, 9am to 11.30am) or direct from the farm or arrange a meeting place.
Contact: 082 415 3780 or wayfarer.dargle@gmail.com