HOTEL LEMONGARDEN
Basics: When the hotel’s Austrian owners visited Sutivan 15 years ago, they swooned over this tranquil fishing village on Brac Island.
Ilic Dvor, a Renaissance mansion from 1505, was the first building they bought and renovated. Over the years, they restored two nearby buildings, the seafront-facing Vesna and the tucked-away Definis with its stone terraces and passageways.
What steals the show is the swimming pool lined with tall palm trees and fragrant gardens with roses, bougainvillea and hibiscus.
The 23 suites and 12 rooms, many with private terraces overlooking the garden or the sea, showcase wood furniture and floors made of marble. Designer finishes like Murano chandeliers and silk fabrics and carpets, together with bold flashes of colour, give the décor a decidedly Mediterranean mood.
Location: The hotel is on the car-free waterfront of Sutivan on the northwest coast of Brac.
The room: The duplex suite, with a coral and sea theme reflected in the colour of the carpets and furniture, had a marble-floored living room with two windows facing the Adriatic Sea. The seafront-facing bedroom had an armchair, a king-size bed and a walk-in closet. A cosy attic bedroom had its own walk-in closet and a bathroom.
The bathroom: Both bathrooms were clad in wood and marble. The downstairs one had a roomy shower with a Naturals hair and body wash dispenser, a bidet and, surprisingly, a urinal. The upstairs bathroom had a tub, a shower and a two-sink counter. Amenities: A minibar was stocked with snacks and drinks. Wi-fi was free but spotty. The private pine-shaded beach was a 10-minute bike or golf cart ride away (complimentary). Dining: The rates included breakfast and dinner, served at the seafront restaurant and a few tables on the edge of the sea. Breakfast was made to order; freshly baked croissants hold you over until food arrives.
The four-course dinner showcased Mediterranean classics with a contemporary twist. Vegetables come from the hotel’s organic farm above Sutivan, and the seafood picked from the fishermen’s morning catch.
The bottom line: An island stand-out etched into the fabric of a Dalmatian fishing village, this ancient compound blends heritage with luxury but with a bend toward kitsch. Rates: From about R4 800 (high season).
BROWN BEACH HOUSE CROATIA
Basics: Brown Hotels opened Brown Beach House Croatia in 2016, the group’s first venture outside Israel. Chic and playful, it features 42 rooms and suites on three floors of a former tobacco warehouse inside a whitestone building with green shutters. Though the beach across the road is a pretty fab affair (with a bar, sun chairs and a DJ set-up) – and a spa for – what steals the show is the gorgeous black-and-white-tiled swimming pool. With bespoke furniture and palm, pine and olive trees, the ground-floor library gives off a Mediterranean vibe, which extends to rooms showcasing retro-aesthetic interior design. Location: The hotel sits along a seafront road a 15-minute walk or a quick bike ride from the ancient harbour of Trogir town, a Unesco World Heritage Site (bikes are complimentary).
The room: My top-floor room, a twin double with a seaside view, was sleek, though the trio of windows seemed slightly too small and ceilings too low. The room looked over the narrow channel onto the mainland. The bed took centre stage, its crisp Egyptian cotton sheets draped casually by wool pillows and throws. Below a flat-screen TV was a walnut wood and faux marble cabinet.
The bathroom: Inside the narrow bathroom clad in marble tiles, the black lacquered wood cabinet beneath the sink had two slim drawers and a dearth of counter space.
Amenities: On the cabinet below the TV, there was an espresso maker and a kettle. The minibar had an assortment of drinks and snacks. Wi-fi was free and reliable.
Dining: A generous breakfast (included) was served in a dining room facing the pool, and on poolside tables. The buffet was modest but the staff brought a small feast to my table: a bread basket, a tray with cold cuts, cheese and tomato in olive oil, and another with butter, soft cheese and Nutella. À la carte options are available.
The bottom line: Harking back to glamorous 1950s Italian resorts, Brown Beach House Croatia delivers contemporary Mediterranean chic with a touch of nostalgia.
Rates: From about R4 000 (high season).