WELCOME BACK TO NATURE
Going on a safari to witness a rhino being dehorned is a never-to-be-forgotten experience
BEING a vegetarian, animal conservation is a sensitive topic.
The dehorning of a rhino is a sad and unfortunate but necessary operation that is taken for these animals’ protection. I was in two minds on joining the hands-on experience of a dehorning at Bayala Private Safari Lodge and Camp. I wasn’t sure if I could endure the whole process. This left me muddled yet something felt necessary about witnessing the events to come. So off I went, leaving reluctance behind and convincing myself that it would be good to unplug from my tech-safe world.
As soon as my feet touched the ground of the thatch-roofed main lodge, I had several questions in mind. “What are the consequences of the dehorning process, do these animals cope with the surrounding wildlife afterwards and isn’t it a bit like robbing one of one’s masculinity?”
I remained silent and let the adventure unfold. I learned a little history of the place and uncovered the passion behind the bushveld.
Bayala Private Safari Lodge and Camp, situated within the Munyawana Game Reserve, was once a hunting ground and cattle farm until it came under new management. They helped restore the land, took down the fences with neighbouring conservancies and with the existing structures on the land it was sensible to explore the hospitality opportunities.
“When we became custodians of Bayala, we really saw a need to make the safari lodge experience more affordable for South African travellers,” explains Simone Godfrey, the co-owner of Bayala.
This led to the lodge becoming a three-star experience (thus making it affordable) and with no fences, allowing visitors to traverse another 10 000ha of bushveld – giving game drives a five-star feel.
The accommodation is simple, decorated in neutral, bushveld colours with thatched roofing.
There are two options: the lodge and the camp, with 24 rooms each. The lodge offers spacious lawns, a swimming pool and bar area, as well as an outdoor informal eating experience overlooking the bushveld in the distance.
If you stretch your neck a bit, you may spot a giraffe or two.
The camp, on the other hand, offers a more family-orientated vibe. The rooms encircle the main lodge, making it safe enough for the kids to venture out. The superior rooms are a great option.
Even though they are slightly more expensive they offer a little more space with private terraces facing the bushveld. Between the family swimming pool and the room is a large outdoor boma where fire-side meals are served and entertainment is offered by the locals. This is Zulu dancing and singing, telling a story unlike any seen before.
The home-cooked meals are made and served with love and the pies are specially baked – with an ‘X’ etched in the pastry to mark the vegetarian option of chickpea and butternut.
Breakfast – full English – is set up out in the bush, to where you are driven. Light lunch options include cheeseboard platters, while evening meals may include delicious halloumi on skewers with roast vegetables, and beef fillet with pap and sauce. All will satisfy a simple palate and put a smile on your face.
The food and pool-side luxury are a bonus but one goes on safari for the bushveld experience. Game drives are packed with adventure and you are in safe hands with the experienced rangers. Drives are in an open-roofed vehicle and you may have the pleasure of seeing the “Big Five” as well as the “Small Five”.
My favourite experience was an evening of sundowners at a watering hole when we were graced by the presence of a majestic giant. Its movement whispered a quiet story and had a certain beauty that could bring a tear to one’s eye. The elephant came for an evening bath. I will never stop being moved by their presence no matter how often I see them.
We had a close encounter when we were positioned between a herd of zebras on one end and a pair of lionesses on the other. The herd was smart and their stripes dazzled once alert to danger. Unfortunately – or fortunately, it’s hard to decide – luck was not on the side of the lionesses that day.
If you are a lover of birds there are plenty to spot on your drive, and there is an educational hike on foot to complete your safari experience.
After showering with borehole water I couldn’t help but feel like I was a lightly salted snack on foot. The game ranger, David, positioned himself at the front of the hiking crew and his partner, Sam, guarded the rear.
David reassured me: “I spend my days in the bush and my evenings watching animal documentaries.”
Sam found a snare on our trip that was almost unnoticeable. This further emphasised how real the threat of poaching is.
The plight to save the rhino is an ongoing battle. Addressing my fears of the dehorning, I was educated about the process. As sad as this method may seem, it is ultimately the most effective approach and the procedure is not stressful for the animals, thanks to expert tranquilising and veterinary interventions.
There have been no poaching occurrences in Munyuwana in the past two-and-a-half years because of their constant efforts.
The animal is sedated with a special cocktail concocted by a wellresearched team and darting is done via helicopter to ensure the animal is in a safe area.
DNA samples are taken for research and the animal is monitored for a few weeks to ensure its adjustment to its surroundings.
The dehorning of a rhino costs around R35 000 with a two-year window before its regrowth, making it an ongoing process.
A bonus of the hands-on experience is that you get up close and personal with the magnificent beast. Have you ever felt the hide of a rhino?